DIY Linear Actuator design

None. LOL
Right now, I am focussing on Asserto Corsa because I only have a wheel controler installed and it is the only driving game that I was able to run with the Pimax so far.
But I spend all my time on calibration. I would say is almost as hard to calibrate those thing than it is to build them.
It's all about finding a balance to obtain good feeling when driving, and not destroying everything when you loose control. I already have to repair a strap skipping steps on one of the actuator.

lol wow so the fun actually begins when the motion sim is built. i only hope i can get to that point to tweak and calibrate!

Hi @hannibal soory for the delay in getting back to you a slight matter of late payment of my Broadband account ...the buggers had the nerve to dissconnect me LOL :- Ok seems the guys have already answered your request for Info , but i'll just add , yes my i still am using the 2 Server psu in Parralel to give me the current boost i need and i do have a car battery in the circuit as well for Regen Dump when im using the 2X60 setup , For my 2X32 setup i hav ethe Resisitors added to the Sabertooth P1 & p2 terminal Block ...... to be honest the system has still not been fired up recently as im bench testing the different Motor /System Controller Options..

but way back in the day they seemd to be fine over the next few weeks if not sooner the whole rig should be back in action . so if the PSU setup is not up to the Job i'll post updates .. Cheers

Bill paid so Ye hah im back online for another month ( Mr dont pay till the red bill comes in ....Came unstuck

thank you thank you!!!
hey @wannabeaflyer2 can you tell me how long your 20x60 linear rails are? did you buy them at pre-cut size, or did you buy longer lengths and have them cut yourself? im trying to decipher your diagrams, but im not sure what units of measurement that you annotated on your drawing...

reply most appreciated!!

Hi @hannibal if memory serves me well (don't count on it LOL ) I bought these and designed the Actuator around the standard off the shelf lengths supplied by Openbuilds so the were 500mm long ( no machining required ...) Mind you
goes without saying if your actuator range is different then im sure they did a Cut to length service at reasonable Price .. Cheers

@wannabeaflyer2

Regarding your email, I'll answer one thing quickly here. To let the Encoder2position circuit to calibrate it needs slower speeds. So set the OFFLINE speed to 20% - 25% !!!!!!

Thanks
Thanos

Hi @Thanos thanks for the tip just gave up for the day but will kick it back into life and try this...after all the wrong get settings hassle I had, I thought somehere the advice was to leave those parameters at 100/99% so looked everywhere else

Earlier did the slipping coupler trick to reduce speed and worked on all the 6 pcb's and encoders ,

I'm sure if that tip works then I can commit to doing full speed actuator position repeatability trails ...cheers

its nice to see you alive and kicking!! @wannabeaflyer2
i just hope all of you are still around by the time i finish my build!

i like to ask if i am ordering carbon tubes with 25mm OD x 20mm ID is ok to use instead of 23mm ID?

im trying to understand everyones DIY builds, so i think it is ok since the screw diameter is 18mm?

i like your opinon too @SilentChill @Pierre Lalancette

Hi @hannibal not by the sim but pretty sure the 1605 balls rew diameter is 16mm so the tube should be OK. Remember to allow for what I call the rotating anti wobble insert at the top end of the ballscrew .. that's still doable with the tube you selected (it just reduces ball screw whip at the inside the tube whe actuator is going full speed)

Hi @Thanos. thanks for the tip yesterday , had quick test late last night and seems to be doing the trick. So moving onwards and getting closer to pushing the actuator under sim control next .. cheers

i noticed at 1:15 one of your actuators twisted.
i dont know if this is still your current design with heim joints at the top and universal joints at the bottom...

is that ok that it twists like that?
i am debating on making a 360 degree base connection to the bottom of the actuator using hieim joints and modified dolly caster wheels to allow the actuator to twist at limit angles.. @wannabeaflyer2 @Flymen @Pierre Lalancette

I think everyone has gone with universal joints at the bottom as any twisting is not good, it will and does effect the small finer movements

Hi @hannibal on holiday so travelling so only just saw your request. The video clip was way back in the very early days of assembling the platform so some items were not fully secure (just wanted to see the monster move lol )

As mentioned by the crew minimal to no twist is the goal . This will allow the uj to work at optimum level. If there is twisting you could end up with the Uj binding a put excessive loads on the joint as movement caused by Twisted alignment

Guys have a question don't know if it is the right thread. Are the actuators rod lenght same for 100 m and 150mm .scn actuators??

Hi everyone, I need to know: the piece indicated by the arrow (see attached figure), which runs between the two aluminum profiles, where it can be found?

I think that's a custom made 3d printed part ?

Maybe yes.
Or an accessory to insert into the ball screw nut?

hi @motiondynamics there are so many variations of that part you may well find its not off shelf item , I'd agree with @SilentChill and say its either machined as solid from High density nylon/plastic type material or more often 3D printed with high infill setting for strength :

One question: can flexible joints (with a simple hole) have slipping problems on the motor shaft?

Hi again This type of accessory https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=images&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwi1tcz9r8jiAhW68uAKHcAfBDMQjRx6BAgBEAU&url=https://www.banggood.com/Ballscrew-Nut-Seat-Bracket-Holder-Ball-Nut-Housing-Bracket-Mount-For-SFU1604-1605-1610-p-1046815.html&psig=AOvVaw298El-GcSd4FrFfl-cPvSc&ust=1559481642803471 might be something your after . close to off shelf part requiring just some extra tapped holes to secure a tube mount . Just a thought as im doing that on mine now as part of some updates .. printing 3d parts later today just for trail fit to see if its a doabke option

not sure if your saying you have a slipping problem with the coupler or need a method to prevent slipping either way any looseness in this area usually increase wear and will becoame a greater problem over time. Best to make sure any coupler used is very secure and use threadlocking compound to secure screws once tightened.. the back and forth nature of the movement will work loose if not keyed / Pinned or not tight enough in 1st place . again just my 2 cents worth -----call it wannabe's learning curve being passed on LOL