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DIY Sim wheel: Force feedback

Discussion in 'DIY peripherals' started by jakob, Nov 18, 2009.

  1. Frakk

    Frakk Active Member

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    Is it 180euros for the mod? Or is it 180euros for the modded wheel? I don't think it is a good idea to drive those cheap chinese DC motors with twice the voltage. They have to change the MOSFETs and the power supply, thats about it.

    Over all, I really advise not to do this kind of modification. The cheapest and easiest way to do this is change the motors to more powerful ones (low turn number). Doubling the supply voltage is not good for either the motors, FETs, and the power regulator for the digital circuitry.

    I hope they tested the mod thoroughly, and offer some kind of warranty in case you fry your not-so-cheap driving wheel.
  2. sdecorme

    sdecorme New Member

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    Hi guys,
    Before making electronics , Could you give us a way how to get the FFB value from the game like SBK.
    I don't find idea on this post.
    Thanks
  3. pk_volt

    pk_volt New Member

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    Hello all,

    I've been on and off race sims since the start of the days of racesimcentral. Anyways, I was one of the very few fortunate people who worked with a guy that figured out how this ffb stuff, and he significantly helped me get a ffb controller working:

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZKv0dJCjiA

    That video was done quite a while ago, but never finished because of my complete lack of mechanical skills. Anyways, I do have access to some basic tools, and we do have a machine shop at work, though I'm still not sure if I'm permitted to use it. Anyone have any suggestions on an easy way to construct a simple wheel setup?
  4. Mizoo

    Mizoo New Member

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  5. ribfreak

    ribfreak New Member

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    Why do all the folks in here consistenly want to re-invent FFB-boards and decoders? You can pickup FFB devices for really small cash anywhere on Ebay or other online shops! To me it would seem to be much more appropriate to figure out how to enhance the output of these devices by matching them to a h-bridge or likewise high currrent controlers! That way we could work with stronger motors and add better mechanics to our DIY wheels because the mechanics are what pisses me of most: No matter how much cash you`ll spend on any affordable wheel, you`ll get cheap plastic only....
    Some small producers have gone this way already and beefed up G25 electronics with perfect mechanical components (Lueg) but their wheels sell for rather astronomical rates which I´m not willing to spend. Apart from that all their clients seem to be very much pleased with their products, so IMHO this might be the way to proceed, doesn`t it?

    I`m in this right now again because I want a more or less 1:1 copy of an older F1- car`s cockpit, with full instrumentation, stickshifter and solid metal wheel so there`ll be no way of building this around a G25 plastic housing!! What I`d need would be a selfmade wheel on a solid metal, ball-beared axis which should be driven by a very powerfull motor which itself might be controled by some beefed-up G25 electronics.

    Anybody done this already?

    Wolfgang
  6. bsft

    bsft

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    Well, we are fabricators of some description, and like to modify anything within reason, including wheels.
  7. ribfreak

    ribfreak New Member

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    Agreed! But like you`ve mentioned it within reason- you probably won`t want to re-invent your PC as well, won`t you? ;D
  8. bsft

    bsft

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    Well, not re-invent , but I seem to upgrade every year!
    Back to racing!
  9. Mizoo

    Mizoo New Member

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    ribfreak: reinvent the wheel ?
    The goal was to use a full metal (and belt) arcade steering wheel (from Happ) with stronger motor than the G25 one (that I have too).

    Have you ever tried to use an electronic card from G25 (or others) with custom hardware ? I don't think so.
    It's not so simple, especially for direct drive rotary encoder.
    And for better feeling, you have to tune the signal depending of your mechanical (impossible to do with logitech board).

    So, I'm not reinventing the wheel, this wheel doesn't exist (or it's not round).

    And why to use an AMC instead of homemade H bridge with current sensor ?
    Cause the AMC just works and is really cheap (30$US on eBay).
    Btw, I'm currently working on a 3 phase controller for brushless motors (up to 10A).

    Cost of the others parts:
    Blueboard board: 25$US (how much for a logitech board ?)
    High resolution rotary encoder: 22$US