Showroom DX - Compact Simulator

Nice idea @Martin van Hagen.

I am just planning to pull it apart yet again and do some additional wiring, some upgrade and maintenance jobs and add some more braided wiring covering secured with billet clamps.

I am using the Kor-Fx for testing, I am actually looking at Dayton puck transducers for the final harness. The Kor-FX is OK for the test but what I want is to program the tactile effects as you do with SimVibe and I am looking forward to SimTools directly supporting bass shakers, which @yobuddy is working on.

I will pull the sim apart again starting next Tuesday, and part of that is adding the upper speaker rail with harness guides, so will post some further pictures and info once I get it done.

Thanks @Seth2Christ.

I just pulled it apart today to do a bunch of improvements, so will post some updates soon.

Thanks @MasterYoda.

My sim was actually built for experimentation rather than for flight or racing, but it actually handles both pretty well, particularly in VR, as it is specifically being developed to explore the possibilities of motion and VR. Hence why it is so configurable, to test various ideas and scenarios. It can easily convert between full frame and seat shaker modes. I can have all the Clubsport and Warthog HOTAS controls mounted at the same time if I want and just swap out the pedals, or I can use the quick release control mounts to swap between race and flight modes, with the center mount joystick pivoting out of the way to make getting in and out easy.

My rig is still under development and at some stage I will add things like traction control. At the moment the current upgrades I am working on are around serviceability, useability, sound and haptics.

My compact sim is back in bits again for some upgrades.

I have shortened the motor lever arms, so I don't have to worry about catching my ankles on them. I would never have used the additional 60 CTC holes so have just left the 40 and 50mm CTC options. I have also swapped out the dainty but pretty hard rubber feet for some really big ones that are way more flexible, seen toward the bottom left of the picture, to better isolate the rig while I am experimenting with haptics.



To improve serviceability I have made up this slide out tray to mount the JRKs, as they live under a fan which is embedded into the frame, so are impossible to get to without pulling the sim apart. I made up some perspex runners for the tray and plan on using a magnetic clasp to lock it in place. The 8KG magnetic lock I got is actually too much, so I will probably end up using a 2KG one instead.

I still need to add the new fuse box, rout the wiring through the back of the tray, add the new wiring connector blocks and put the JRK heatsinks back on, then do a bunch of wiring to the new control box.

Unfortunately I also managed to accidentally break off a very small chip on one JRK board when removing the old wire block, which I am replacing with bigger wire connecting blocks.

I have another dead JRK, so perhaps I can steal the chip off that and re-solder it to this one, nothing to lose in trying.





This is the start of the new control box, which will also mount the HOTAS joystick in front of it. The kill switch and audio controls for sound and haptics are mounted. The hole is for the inbuilt Nexus 7 tablet, which will act as the computer screen when using the Rift without needing to run the ultra short throw projector, and for a bunch of apps that provide in game controls. I still need to add JRK monitoring LEDs and reset switches, using @Archie's brilliant idea.

The control box will eventually be mounted with a quick release to allow it to conveniently pivot to the right, to maintain easy access getting in and out of the sim when the rig is in full frame mode and the joystick is mounted HOTAS style.



I will add more upgrade details as they progress over the next few weeks.

Yes @SeatTime I have heatsinks for the JRKs, but they are off while I am making the new sliding tray, as it is a really tight fit and I didn't want to catch one on the frame while testing the fit by sliding the new tray in and out. The heatsinks will go back on once all the new wiring is in place.

Thanks @speedy and @RaceRay, the community recognition is very much appreciated.