Showroom DX - Compact Simulator

So a little more progress.

I have gone for simple in mounting the 40kg servos for the quasi surge plate so I can at least test them.



You can also see the multiple pivot mount points that allow for a seat shaker, flight and race mode.



Because the pivot post can be set in different modes I needed a simple and flexible way to adjust it on the base, which is almost finished. The center post has been modified so it clamps the rails with four bolts and plates but can be released. A cordless drill will be used to turn the 1/2" screw that will alter the position of the post, I just need to finish mounting and drilling the front boxing it will go through and rotate in. I have teflon on order to help it side. You can also see the new solid aluminium lever arms.

They are BR16-350mm Linear Bearing Rails and 4 SBR16UU bearing blocks which I got on ebay for $66. This is the same seller and product but they are currently listed at $152: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2pcs-SBR...55?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item3f34a62bbf

The posts are recycled from the original DX Racer chair. I still have to build the Hotas top plates but am waiting on some buttons to arrive before I design them.

I am a minimalist at heart so I like simple as much as possible. Every time I put the DX Racer together and stand back I get a buzz from its seeming simplicity. Every time I turn it over, pull it apart and yet again modify something because of the tight tolerances I curse its complexity. But it is only the quasi surge plate experiment that makes it complex. It would be dead simple as a 2DOF seat shaker or a combined flight/race full frame with lighter controls and a single balance point.

Time for the shaft and pot mounting. I followed @SeatTime's handy tip to drill the shaft using a lock nut with a smaller nut inside to center it.



I drilled the shaft 8mm but went slightly deeper at 7.5mm and let the threaded rod cut its own end locating thread.



Next the shaft was drilled and 5mm tap. The M5 grub screw was cut just long enough to create an interference fit with the shaft nut, which keeps both locked in place.





The shaft was drilled and tapped to secure the shaft to the motor, again with M5 grub screws.



Finally the pots were mounted to the motors with 2x20mm aluminium and flexible couplers. A 6mm angle bracket was also made to secure the adjustable post threaded shaft. Thanks go to @bsft for advice on angles for the movement arms.





For now all that remains of the main construction phase is to rebolt the base plate back on when I have someone to give me a hand and then move the DX Racer inside the house for the electrical work and testing.

I used something I already had @Nick Moxley, which was 6.25 to M8. The shaft did changed from the 12mm I initially thought I would use to 1/2" as the latter was a better fit in the motors.

Same here @Nick Moxley. I got 3 of the same motors and it turns out 1/2" fits perfect in two and 12mm in the other, so am guessing it is a manufacturer component batch issue.

I was initially going to directly mount the pots to the shaft because it was more compact, but changed my mind at the last minute and grabbed and added the couplers, just for a bit of extra tolerance security.

The HP power supplies have been modded, with @Slider handy how to making it nice and simple.

Setting up the JRKs for the the motors should be pretty simple, with @eaorobbie step by step guide.

I do have a question though, can I use the same model JRK to control RC servos and if so how do you wire that up and would there be and key differences in the Pololu config utility? There is lots of Arduino forum info for RC servos but I can't find anything re using the JRK. I am happy to go down the Arduino path if that is easier, but I happen to have an extra JRK already. Any advice is much appreciated!

Exceptionally so thanks @Slider, it really should be in the FAQ section.

Thanks @bsft, JRK list it RC being supported for this model but I will need to contact Pololu as it is not clear how it is set up, as everything I can find re RC servo control relates to the Maestro line. I don't want to waste a lot of time, as there is much more info on the arduino working with SimTools and I can always grab some of them next week.

I am also thinking it is may be easier to go the arduino route with @eaorobbie code, so will grab one next time I go to town, hopefully next Monday.

Got a problem with setting the JRKs when following @eaorobbie step by step guide.

As soon as I add power and start 'Detect Motor Direction' it gives a PID Period Exceeded warning, but you can't check the error tab to see what it is and as soon as you close the Detect Motor Direction Dialog window the PID error disappears. Any advice gratefully appreciated.

Never mind, it was a loose wire and a loose pin. Don't you just hate that sort of thing!