IBT-2 H Bridge no 24v output

Your problem is the wrong position of the HALL sensor , I will try to explain in simple words.
To begin with, disconnect the power supply to the engine, remove the timing belt, and spin the sensor slowly, you will notice that although it can spin around, the useful range is about 270 degrees, at some point turning the sensor causes a sharp change in the line to the opposite side.
Set the hall sensor so that by gently turning left/right the green line in SMC3Utils will gently rise and fall.
In general, with the green line in the middle, the voltage measured on the sensor should be around 2.5 volt

The second cause is the wrong order of cable connection in IBT2
Replace the cables in M+,M-

I looked at the pictures you posted, are you sure you are using the correct batch for the Arduino ?
In the pictures you can see entries for DOF Reality, in the original SMC3 batch there are no such entries.
Download the correct version from this thread
https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/

Hi thanks for the response, please ease see attached pictures, everything seems wired up correctly. The PID does control the motor to a limited extent, it does not reverse, just goes as expected in one direction, when you turn the PID in the other direction and go past the central line it goes in the same direction but full speed.
The PID is lined up correctly, set center and powered off.
Hopefully you can follow the wires.
Thanks Richard

Also something else, in SMC3, should the PID movement only be shown for one motor, as when I turn the PID it doesn't matter if motor 1 or 2 is selected the PID moves the green line for both, which seems very wrong

It's hard to see from the photo if you have connected the wires correctly, when zooming in the details blur and I can't see exactly which pin the wire is connected to.
For example, is the photo you showed a motor circuit 1 or 2 ?
I can't see if the yellow wire with the signal from the potentiometer is connected to A0 (motor 1 ) or to A1 (motor 2). Check again carefully the connections according to the diagram, .
The second thing is more important see carefully the pictures you uploaded of programming the Arduino board with the smc3.ino batch.
In your case there are entries for the board of the company DOF Reality , I do not know if with this version IBT2 drivers work properly.
Install the correct version of smc3.ino from this thread.
https://www.xsimulator.net/communit...3dof-motor-driver-and-windows-utilities.4957/

I will write how I use SMC3utils:
1. smc3Utils is not used to control the engine, its only function is to configure the engine startup .
2.In fact, after soldering the cables and connecting the pinion on the hall sensor axis with the pinion on the motor shaft, you set the parameters as in the attached file in most cases.
3) Of course, when you first start PWMmax you increase slowly to see if the movement of the green line (signal reading from the hall sensor) follows the blue line (direction of movement that is sent to the motor) , if the two lines diverge you swap the poles in the M+ M- connector of the IBT2 controller.
I don't understand what you mean by “PID rotation” show it on some short video.

This is based on motor 2, POT is connected to A1
Uno 10 connect to IBT 2
Uno 4 connect to IBT 1
Uno 5 connect to IBT 3/4

I mean when I rotate the hall sensor it shows the green line moving on both motors in SMC3.

I would like to help you but I need to have precise answers from you
1. did you check the version of the software you uploaded to the arduino board because from the pictures you posted it looks like it is not the correct version.
2. disconnect all the connections you made.
3) Make the correct connections only for motor #1, that is the one where you connect the signal from the HALL sensor to pin A0.
4. the situation which you describe that rotation of the hall sensor causes a change in the green line on the readout of motor 1 and motor 2 indicates an incorrect connection( short circuit?) at the input of pins A0 and A1 or other irregularity. If this is the case, it is impossible to start both motors correctly, you need to correct it.

So I rewired everything last night, new wires etc, no different, it makes no sense. Here is my latest testing summary.
POTs connect and move the green line in SMC3
Confirmed correct INO file from forum thread
Set to MODE2
Now the interesting part...
When connected the the IBT chip gets red hot very quickly even when the motors are not connected.
I removed all the wires from ITB other than from the PSU, chip stays cool, added the + - wires, still cool. As soon as I add the PWM (5) wire the chip gets super hot, L_EN and R_EN are shorter across as per design.

Very strange things you describe,
Do I understand correctly that when you turn the hall sensor connected to A0 pin it changes the green line on motor 1,
the green line on motor 2 remains unchanged ?
As for IBT2 heating I'm afraid you just have a short circuit, the question is do both IBT 2 bridges heat the same way ?
My and other people's experience with IBT2 is that they are of very poor quality, I myself have 8 units that died after a very short life.
I am currently using a 100A driver
https://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/reasonably-priced-100a-motor-controllers.17638/

bought from this store
https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005...o.order_list.order_list_main.5.21ef1c24a0e0TY

it has been working for two weeks with no problems, the motors are quieter and run smoother

Yes the Hall Sensor are now working individually so that issue is resolved, I think you are right about the Hbridge, they are not great for the purpose, I'll have a look at the alternative you have mentioned.

Hi, so I ended up buying 2 of the 60amp versions, one for each motor, I'm guessing I may have the wired up wrong as I am getting no output from the motors, PID is moving when turned, I've made the assumption the PIN's are the same config as the IBT-2, obviously not.

Hmm, since I know little about electronics I always follow one rule if someone has tested something I buy exactly what he indicated as working .
Ok it happened, now you have to rescue the situation looking at the pictures from the auction of the controller you bought it has a different signal on the pins
https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005...ene:pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller|query_from:

The photo is quite small but you can guess what to connect where.
You can also post a link to the controller you bought in the thread about 100A controller and ask for an explanation of what to connect where.

Give a link to the auction on which you bought maybe there will be a better picture of the connections.

Ok you persuaded me , I bought one I'm waiting for delivery I'll hook it up to my working motion sim we'll see what comes out of it.

Couldn't resist the challenge hey.....Let me know how it goes, I've tried a few configurations but no joy, don't want the blow the thing up

So it now does this, 1 stage further, see pics and video link.

I watched the video, it looks OK, the motor moves according to the sine wave motion, assemble the ribbed wheels and belt on the motor shaft and hall sensor and it should be OK.

Hi, it is completely incorrect, it only rotates in one direction, and it has no variable speed. It should follow the sine, it doesn't even remotely follow the sign, it should speed up, slow down and then do the same in reverse.

That's what I'm writing about, how is the arduino supposed to know that the motor has swung by a certain angle if you haven't connected the feedback signal from the hall sensor ? On the screen you can see that the green line, i.e. the feedback signal from the hall sensor is horizontal, which means that the arduino sends a signal to the motor to rotate in order to reach the level determined by the green line. The green line should sinusoidally follow the blue line, practically overlapping.

Hi, even with the hall sensor attached and using that rather than SMC3 to move the motor it behaves the same, when turned the motor turns but not gradually, it's either on or off