Just started my 6DOF Rig

Good to know. Thanks for your help with that. I'm not sure of I will have problems with the miss matched motors. My theory was have 4 the same 26:1 towards the front and the 2 32:1 motors at the rear. I will let you know how it goes. When I have made a start on the build I will post a new thread.

i think thats problematic, because in some movements all of the motors will move at the same time . for example the easiest: heave - it will move all up motors like the same, if 2 of the motors will be slower or the gear ratio will rotate the levers in a different angle angle you will not be in the correct position. maybe you can tweack the outputs, speeds and usage of the angles but i think this will be veeeeeeery complicated to find out .

if all the same you can just maintain all the same values for the motors ... maybe you can replace some motors so you dont have to buy 6 new ones ... ?!

Your probably right but I had two of the motors given to me for free, so I feel it has to be worth a try.

A Short cosmetic upgrade. Covering the rods with carbon Look tubes

You weren't tempted to put the motor arm levers around the other way? So they were closer to a 90 degree?

I dont know if this makes a difference.. I asked this question too. But does it make it more stable if the lever Arms Shows outwards?

My knowledge is probably a bit too limited but I understand that the nearer to 90 degrees the better performance return and less strain on the motors. I think you would get more travel too. As to whether its more or less stable, I guess that's something you can test out.
I was interested as I am getting things ready for my 6dof build.

Can I ask what the dimensions are of your hexagonal metal base frame? Is it an equal sided hexagon ?

measurements are 600mm long sides (with the motors on it) 400mm short sides .

maybe theres a missunderstandig about the 90 degree angle .... my lever arms and the rods has a 90degree angle ... but maybe the other side around there are other forces and its better if the rods needs to be as much straight upwards as they can ?! anyway my neutral position is like that ...so the travel upwards and downwards is the same so i think there is no difference in the endresult for the seat platform

I think if you maintain that as the neutral position then you should be fine. I think the load will be increased, purely because of the increased angle to the direction of the load force but with your 50:1 you should be fine.
Thanks for the dimensions on the frame. I was thinking of going with an equal hexagon shape with 600mm sides. I think like you, building a wood version first will help me work out what's best.

I did think a bit more about the difference in the gear ratios but after thinking about it, I think it would be correct in thinking, since the rotation of the arms will never exceed 50% and more realically, likely 30 to 40% of a full rotation, this would narrow the gear difference significantly. I think rpm may be more the issue than gearing, worst case scenario, I guess I can swap out the two motors. Thanks for getting me to think it over though, love a little problem solve. Lol

new arrival yesterday !!!! just screwed everything together this morning looks good so far



next steps: weld the steel square tubes in place that holds the aluminum frame. add some quick release to shift the aluminum frame back and forth if needed.

paint steel frame black.

mount seat back. adjust everything for correct distances etc. find places for the bass shakers

add a floor plate

and of course testing and if everything works . put electronical stuff into lower frame ....

edit: Plywood seems to work well with the bass shakers see one of the picture i added a piece that lying around with a clamp for testing. so i will make some nice holders for them.

update: paint applied, everything screwed together

next steps: add floor plate, make holders for the shakers.

add "sound system" got an logitech x-530 for 25 Euro from ebay ;D very nice

add a 9 key mechanical mini keyboard to the left seat side for "seat adjustments" in game. i think its very nice for VR where the center of view is mostly not correct initially

i found a VEEEEERY cheap solution to get rid of the "weak" 120Watt motors ... i noticed that they struggle with the entire rig mounted if going "down" .... up is okay but if the levers go down its kind of wiggeling to the ground.

i ordered 1 motor for testing ! a 24V 350 Watt motor wit 2800rpm which is normally for E-scooter or similar vehicles. i do some research and it has minimum twice the torque of the 120watt ones and way more power. i testet it at one side and every wiggeling was gone ... so i ordered the other 5 too !!! one costs JUST 40 EURO !!!!!! on ebay brand new !!!! the only thing to do is use ad adaptor for the shaft (its 8mm to 12mm) - works also fine ! and i have to screw them to the worm gear housing with some tweaks, drill new holes in the housing and use longer screws through the housing and the motor, replacing the original motor screws that held origianally the motorcase together., i will post photos of it when they arrive

i 3d printed also some holder brakets for the sound system

edit:

these are those motors:
there are different versions with 12/24/36Volts and different wattage

the refit works like this, with shaft adapter and longer screws to hold the motor (replacing the original motor screws)



therse a holder plate welded to the motor. maybe i just add a fan there for active cooling

the original fitting motors would cost 3-4 times mores per piece and has less torque

Motors installed ;D and works very well. i made the shaft adapters by myself from a stainless steel pipe.

i was getting nuts as i noticed that some of the gearboxes and original motors had different inputshafts ... 4 out of 6 was 12mm and the other 2 was 11 .... ARGH !!!!

so
old: 120Watt 24V 1800rpm Motors with a torque (internet infos) 4,8 kg-cm which is 0,47 NM

new: 350Watt 24V 2750rpm with a torque of 1,22 NM

a few Updates:
Holders for the Shakers made and installed:
Floor Plate installed
Speakers attached

Mini Update : ignition box:


Build with cheap car ignition switch Plate from amazon/ebay.
I Just used a usb joystick pcb to wire All up.

Advantage there. All led Light worked. But the toggle switch doesnt work well. So I switched over to an arduino pro micro.

There you can add a logic that executes a Single Button press on toggle change. Unfortunately the Board unable to Light up the switches and led. So I swapped out the Red led to a Single argb led which is driven by simhub: 0rpm led off 1+ rpm led on.

Case is 3d printed.

I'm reading from the beginning and extremely curious to see this in motion because I'm interested in seeing these DC motors dealing with this type of simulator, when is a motion video coming out?

Good point, i will do it in the next days