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Konterror's 2 DOF Seatmover Project

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by konterror, Feb 5, 2015.

  1. shannonb1

    shannonb1 Well-Known Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, AC motor, Arduino, JRK, 4DOF
    You need to take the trash out and clean that damn bench off then you can play with your tubing.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  2. konterror

    konterror Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
    2DOF, DC motor, JRK
    The push rods look like this:
    IMG_1821.JPG
    This is aluminum tubeing with a M8 thread cut in.
    The wooden motor mounts were first just to have a model for steel ones:
    IMG_1819.JPG
    [​IMG]

    It looked like this moving (My father and I used a batterie to move the motor):


    After this we figured out the motor needs a mountpoint a little lower and the levers need to be a bit shorter.
    We went away from the steel mount idea and will use wood instead. It looks like this now:
    IMG_1831.JPG
    IMG_1830.JPG

    There will be a wooden plate connecting both mounts to make it more rigid. The pots are mounted on too, but I have no pics right now.

    In case everything goes as planned the simulator will be running this week. The "make it look good point will be postponed though :D I will post another update soon.

    To put the ToDo list back in:
    put everything together -> (electronics missing)
    make it look good :D
    IMG_1820.JPG IMG_1824.JPG IMG_1822.JPG
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Baptx

    Baptx Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    hi,

    Very robust structure, may be oversized?

    Why not put aluminum profiles 40x40 or 45x45 gold?
    80x80 is a lot right?
  4. bsft

    bsft

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    whats the centre to centre length of those levers?
    • Dislike Dislike x 1
  5. eaorobbie

    eaorobbie Well-Known Member SimTools Developer Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Levers look to be way too long for the motors to handle. and your connecting bars are way too vertical (sorry if not, but photos show very little lean on them) , meaning the motors will have to work even harder to control the movements.

    These are things that we have learnt over the years and have watch new people make the same mistake over and over again, we try to help but what do we know after several builds and years of advising. lol.

    Plus only advising , Have you isolated the earth from the wiper body ?

    If not this has the potential to fry anything connected to the sim via its earth , eg. Steering wheel and pedals if bolted to frame, controllers , the pots as the earth is a body earth on cheap pots and some expensive ones too, the end result is 12V running through the earth of the wiper , too make the motor go in reverse, then goes to earth of pot and the earth is connected back to the common earthing found in all controllers and then this feeds 12v back down your earth on your usb port and frys the motherboard of the pc. This I have done personally, hence I ask and advise people this CAN HAPPEN !!!.

    We only give advice to help people to not make the same mistake over and over again, if they listen cool, if not well you can not lead a dying horse to water, and expect he will drink it and live. ROFL
    • Agree Agree x 2
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  6. bsft

    bsft

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    @Baptx , thats ok you rated this post "dumb" . Once you have built 14 different design sims, sold 4 and have 2 as hire out machines, and have had over 100 people play on them over the years , then you are welcome to advise further.
    • Agree Agree x 5
  7. kanuk

    kanuk If it ain't moving, it ain't simulating...

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Those pushrods. Where does one get aluminium tubing like that?
  8. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Just search ebay or contact a local supplier, aluminum round bar can be purchased in a variety of Outside Diameter and Inside Diameter combinations. If you can't find what you want you can do what I did, use solid round bar and drill and tap it to suit.
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  9. kanuk

    kanuk If it ain't moving, it ain't simulating...

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    It's just that I haven't quite seen one like this one with a frame structure within it. Looks interesting.....
  10. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    I agree with @eaorobbie. But you can test it for yourself because the profile aluminum frame makes it easy to move the motors out and back, and reversing the lever will also increase the angle of the rods. Drill the levers at different CTC distances and experiment. I don't know the rated motor specs but try 50, 65 and 80mm CTC. The shorter the CTC the greater weight it can move, the longer the CTC the faster the linear speed.
  11. konterror

    konterror Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Thanks for your input!
    I got the tubing here: http://www.motedis.com/shop/Tube-sy...e-with-core-aluminium-anodized-28mm::824.html

    @bsft Center to center lever length is 130mm right now.
    @eaorobbie I have not done that, yet. You just made me think I should :D (I hope I find that tutorial again)
    @Baptx most of the frame is 40x40. Some parts are 40x80 and 40x160 though. And you are right, the 40x80 I used on the seat is too much. Next time I would 40x40 there.

    @noorbeast / @bsft The seat is pretty balanced in the 0 position and has to move roughly 95kg including me and the seat construction.
    I would shorten the levers to 80mm first. Do you think that would work?
  12. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Yes 80 would likely be a good place to start, but do consider the other advice given about the narrow and upright rod angles. At least it is pretty easy to alter them with your simulator.
    • Agree Agree x 1
    Last edited: Mar 30, 2015
  13. konterror

    konterror Member

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    @noorbeast Thanks! I forgot to mention that in my reply :D
    I will leave the motors where they are front to back but shorten the levers 50mm. that will angle them less steep.
    Moving the motors to the outside might be a little trickey because there is a kind of a limited range of motion in the joint heads. I will experiment a little with the motor placement to find the best compromise before I cut the front wooden plate.
  14. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Just some ideas for consideration.

    To give the joints some extra clearance for full movement you can use tapered spacers or just some tube spacers.

    [​IMG]

    I get the limited rage of motion of the heim joints as they are currently attached, but having the frame made from profile aluminum means you also can consider easily moving them to the outside of the frame upright.

    IMG_1822.JPG
  15. bsft

    bsft

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    50mm CTC lever should be ok.
    Probably a stupid question, what are the motors you are using, they look like big wiper motors?
    Whats the rated RPM at the shaft?
  16. konterror

    konterror Member

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    @bsft Those are big wiper motors. They have are supposed to have 80 Watt. I counted 50 RPM in the Slower mode and 75 in the faster mode.
    In the table are the part numbers and manufacturers. Maybe you find more Info there, but as far as I remember those info where somwhat scarce.

    OE-NummerHersteller
    800014Alanko
    0390341403Bosch
    10921743SWAG
    1408200008Mercedes

    First of all I isolated earth on the wiper motors. Thanks again to @eaorobbie I would have probaly fried somthing in the near future :D

    Yesterday I put everything together and used 100mm CTC to begin with and went on with 80mm. With the shorter levers the seat moved faster. I would have tried 60mm or shorter, but with that lever lenght I need to get diffrent motor mounts. The wooden mounts restrict the lever movement because of the needed thickness.

    The one motor looked great and was able to move the seat with someone sitting in it with ease. The JRK diagrams did not look too bad I think.
    The other motor jitterd on the movement and was a lot slower. The JRK settings were the same. Might be a carbon brush not lying correctly on the anchor (I hope the technical words are understandable) or something else... Someone with an idea?
  17. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Sometimes there are difference between individual motors and hence JRK PID settings.

    It does sound like the levers are still too long at 80, 50 CTC would likely be better. You may need to rethink those engine mounts.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  18. konterror

    konterror Member

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    @noorbeast you are right with the motor mounts. Once I get the second motor running smooth, and have new mounts I will try it with 80mm and 50mm. I am a little hesitant to cut them down to 50mm right away, since I need to make new levers once they are too short (thats two to three hours with my tools).

    You think its not a physical problem but something with PID settings that makes the motor jitter?
    Right now I use the settings you recommend to start with in the tutorial. Do you have advise what to change in the PID to get the jittering under control? (I have not read much about PID yet and have pretty much no clue)?
  19. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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  20. bsft

    bsft

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    Most of us run 200 watt motors on the JRKS no problems, and with gearbox ratios of 25:1 or 60:1 , with a 40mm CTC lever and the right settings that would equate to about 300mm per second and 130mm per second speed. Give or take.
    50 rpm motor and 80 watt is standard wiper . What I began with and have since moved on.