Ledfoot's 2DOF simulator project

You adsolutely wont go wrong with the simXperience setup as it is well designed and proven. Going the DIY route, you would have to search very hard to find materials at a reasonable cost.

....MIke

I wanted to add some more dampening to my actuators so I decide to try the actuator covers from SimXperience that have adjustable inline dampening. When I received the package, I was absolutely impressed by the quality of the product. These things are definately over engineerd and are Tank tough.











Here is a video of them in action

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=12zjQN3jEVQ

The additional dampening made a big difference to the overall feel and makes the car suspension feel more natural. The ability to adjust the feel is a great option as well. Thanks Berney for great service and a solid product.

...Mike

hi mike,
this is the perfect dämpering for the scn5 very nice work bernard, i love it.

Hello ledfoot
I've been following your posts as they are of great info to someone looking to build a diy 2dof. I noticed you were using the 40 lite tslot. I also live in Canada and haven't been able to locate the extrusions anywhere. Several sites including the 8020 eBay site only ship to the US, where did u get yours?
Thanks.
Brian

Hi Brian,

I purchased the 40x40 lite from IPEC Factory Automation. They are located in Concord, Ontario.

www.ipecautomation.com

Thanks ledfoot. Did you just use 2 smaller ball joints under your dampening bar? And did you use the same size rod ends for the upper and lower actuator arm as well as the stabalizer arms? Thanks

Hi Brian,

There are no ball joints under the dampener bar. I use 2 rubber dampeners rated at 115lbs each. The rod ends for the actuator arms are different thread because the SCN5's use 10mm 1.25 thread and the threaded rod at the bottom uses 3/8-24 thread. SimXperience can also supply the necessary rod ends.

The dampeners were purchased from www.vibrasystems.com.


....Mike

Thanks so much ledfoot. I'm just trying to get as much info as I can from several members here. I've been studying 'Mr Burn's Tutorial' and it only briefly mentions the wiring diagram for the kill switch. Any suggestions. Also are those small L shaped aluminum brackets that you used to mount the actuators to the actuator cover dampening kit?
Brian

Hi Brian,

There are no brackets necessary to mount the SCN5's they connect directly to the covers. Take a look in the SCN5's hardware thread for diagrams that outline the kill switch configuration. Just to note, the kill switch does not kill power to the actuators, it only stops them from moving but they are still initialized. if you want to totally kill them, you will need to build a circuit that will totally disable the power supply. I an only using the regular kill switch at the moment.

...Mike

Hi Mike
Have been folowing your set setup for a while now. It impressive. I also am in the process of purchasing 3 Tv's, I am consdiering between 42 to 47. My concern however is trying to find a set with smaller bezels. may I ask what is the width of your tv bezels.

I'm a big fan of V8 supercars (Bathurst in Particular in rFactor Orsm) and my rig will be about 30 so days away from completion...I have never seen the v8's on 3 47 tvs in a setup like yours..I don't how to ask this...but if you happen to do a couple of laps around that track I would be very greatful, I'm just trying to get get as much knowledge as I can before I invest in the tv's. Any pointers to look out for in selecting these screens would also go a long way.

Thanks a million

Vito

Hi OzziV8,

I chose the Vizio tv's because of the great price and also because their bezels are only 1.25. I also overlap the bezels so that my total bezel width is only 1.25 on each side instead of 2.5.

I don't have the V8 mod installed but I will install it and see if I can get a video for you. Make sure you get tv's with a very fast refresh rate and high contrast ratio.

....Mike

I never picked it up in the pics that you overlapped them....good Idea....gives me a bit more to play with when slecting my tv's. We don't have the vizio's downunder but trying to balance price verses quailty and desired features, like the bezel,response time ect etc.

Mike, if you can do that video that will be awsome.

Vito

Hey Ledfoot,

Just starting to build my own 2dof as we speak. What are the new lengths of both extrusions that are connecting to the actuators on your rig, the one at the base connected to the dampeners and the one connected to the seat? Also, is the distance from that rear bar to the center pivot still similar to the original 'playseat measurements' you posted previously?

Thanks Brian

What are the contrast ratios/refresh rates of your tvs ledfoot? What is a good length to mount them from your rig?

Hi bwawyrk,

Sorry that I missed your earlier question about the length of the extrusions. Please let me know if you still need those dimmensons.

The specs for the tv's can be found here:
http://www.pricegrabber.ca/search_techs ... roduct_tab

I have them mounted about 36 from my seating position.


....Mike

Thanks for the specs mike. If you have the time I'd love to see the dimensions.

brian

The dimensions that I used are in this thread.

building-a-proper-motion-base-for-scn5-s-t2216.html

Thanks Ledfoot. Couple more questions if you would endulge me. What are the specs of your pc? Are you running both the force sender and the game on the same pc and if yes, are you having any difficulty making ingame changes when racing? Concerning the mods you made to your pedal unit, are those just small spacers you used to adjust the pedal length? And any plans on using a 3rd actuator to simulate yaw drifting movements? Thanks so much. Brian

Hi Bwawryk,

I've run x-sim in multi PC and single PC configurations. I'm currently running on a single Intel i5 750 PC overclocked to 4.0ghz. The overclock is done to get more performance from iRacing since it does not support more than 2 cores. I do a lot of testing and it is certainly easier to do this with a dual monitor or dual PC configuration but I don't have an issue quicly tabbing out to the windows desktop to make a change and then go back into the sim.

This spacers were used to adjust the pedal position but I am now using a spacer kit that I purchased that was specifically made for the G25 http://www.h-engineering.nl/h_g25pad.htm

I am currently looking at adding a 3rd yaw actuator but this is going to take a bit of work with my current design

...Mike

hi mike,
you want make a yaw sektion,but i mean a front sektion is a many better way.
with a yaw sektion is better as without a yaw sektion but you can only feel the back on the car.with a front sektion you have better feeling over all effects.if you have drive only one time with a front sektion you agree with me.