Marco's 2DOF motion simulator based on Thanos' design

Those are wipermotors btw. For the rear window of a VW T5 van. They're not window-lifting motors. Hence they should be stronger than that. But I'm not sure if they're as strong as those for the windshield, since those have to be strong enough to work against the air bouncing of the windshield of a moving car.
I'm going to look out for windshield-wiper-motors, hence the stronger option.
About the interchangable electonics parts: how can I know which are usable surrogates and which aren't?
Would it suffice to go to the store and trust the man behind the counter to do the job?
E.g. I go there with the partlist and then tell him: could you get me all of these and when the parts don't match let him suggest something that should do the job?
Or maybe come back to the forum with the parts that weren't available and ask which surrogate I should get?

Kurzhubtaster (höhe ist egal)
http://www.reichelt.de/?ACTION=3;GROUP= ... e3dff4cbf3

Stiftleiste RM 2,54mm
http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=44 ... e3dff4cbf3

Platinensteckverbinder 3polig
http://www.reichelt.de/?;ACTION=3;LA=44 ... e3dff4cbf3

Btw, I doubt you can use the wiper motor you linked. How do you attach the leaver to it? It has some kind of special nut...
I'd rather go to a Schrottplatz. The have plenty wiper motors there, and you can choose the most suitable ones for cheap.

Gruss

Thx, that's the kind of advice i needed, maybe I can even complete the whole partlist with this.
About the wipermotors: like I said, I'm going to look for stronger ones. On wednesday I'm passing the Ludolfs on the way to my parents anyways, so why not make a stop ^^.

And making a fitting lever shouldn't be the biggest of problems, like I said I'm a bit accustomed to crafting metal.
The electronics-side of the project is what's giving me headaches...

The wipers in the rear are much smaller and slower than the ones in the front. Not to mention that there are 2 wipers in the front instead of 1 in the back, using a single motor only.

To substitute:
-capacitors: need to have same value (uF pF etc), minimum 12V for H-Bridge, min. 5V for control board. Higher max V rating is always better, but gets more expensive and they are also larger. It is also possible to change the values, just check back with me.
-resistors: can be very general 5% 1/4W resistors, match values (ohm). Again, some values can be changed.
-diodes: basically any small signal diode (1n4148 is most common) and for the Zeners, just match the voltage rating (3.3V, 5.1V etc)
-transistors: general purpose NPN transistors will work (2n3904, bc546), but pay attention if you need PNP also.

-MOSFETS: as ego said before, make sure you get LOGIC LEVEL mosfets for the low sides. IRFZ44N is the regular, IRLZ44N is the logic level equivalent. You can buy different ones than what is posted if you want more current handling, just make sure the low N-Ch mosfets are LOGIC LEVEL. High side P-Ch mosfets can be regular.

-Integrated circuits: max232 - any RS232 level converter that has same pin out (most do), LM7905 - any 3pin 5V regulator (check pin out), 74HC?? logic gates are all industry standard, the At8535 is the only one you have to match, but that is common sense.

-The rest is really up to you as far as connectors. The footprints on the board are for 2.54 (0.1) spacing connectors, thats all you have to care about.


Most important: ALL OF THE REPLACEMENT COMPONENTS HAVE TO HAVE THE SAME PINS!! For example if a transistor has pins (BCE), replacement also has to be (BCE).
If you are in doubt, just google the components and check out their datasheets. You will quickly find your answers and also learn even more!

Btw, I'd recommend to use sockets for the MAX232 and the Atmega...

They're on the partlist, thanks for the tip.

Progress:
I found and got a lot of the parts already locally.
For both the AMC and the DSMhb only these parts are missing:

Resistors:
4x 3.6K Ohm 1/4 watt , available are 3.3K Ohm
4x 160 Ohm 1/4 watt, available are 180 Ohm
can I take these as substitutes?

Capacitors:
4x 100nF/100V I only got 100nF/63V, is that going to be a problem?

and:
A local store could order 10 IRLZ44NP for me, for 0,90€ a pop.
But can I substitute those for the non P version? Google only gave me litterally chinese, which told me nothing.
The person on the phone told me that it could have to do sth. with lead...but he wasn't sure neither...

Those are the missing parts.
At the moment I'm ordering the PCB boards, they're manufactured in a small shop just about 15km from here.

I don't see any problems substituting those resistors.

As I said with the capacitors: need to have same value (uF pF etc), minimum 12V for H-Bridge, min. 5V for control board. Higher max V rating is always better, but gets more expensive and they are also larger.
63V will be more than enough in a 12V maximum circuit.

You can get the IRLZ44NP. It is more than likely the new RoHS compliant lead-free batch of transistors.

Whoow!
That's great news.
I just wanted to check if it's all ok. I'm an electronics noob, just did a bit of soldering whilst reparing my old Logitech DFP...

Edit:
And bad news, just rang them up to order them and it was another guy on the phone. He told me that the shipping would take 30 weeks (!!!) because their dealer is out of stock as well!
What a shame...and I was so close...
Could I use the IRLZ34N as a substitute? Found it on reichelt.de, but they don't have the 44N as well...

And I found it on Conrad.de
Gonna get them and the missing LM2940 CT5 there, whoow!
Progress once again!

Edit2:
Ordered the LM2940 and the IRLZ44N on conrad.de
part by part the stuff should be flying in over the next weeks

Hi.

I wanted to give an update on my project.
Things are progressing slowly at the moment, but I almost got all the parts needed for the AMC and DSMhb, just a few more resistors and crystals and I'm set.
I'm getting those on maybe monday.
The PCB boards are coming next week as well.

And for the construction I got this fine seat:

A nice bucket seat, second hand, merely used (from a car-aftermarket fair for 56€) that makes a comfortable place to be in whilst racing and/or flying.
I hope in my next post I can present the soldered AMC and maybe the DSMhb as well.


Have a nice weekend,
Marco.

Edit:
Hi.
I would like to present my first soldering-results:



As blueprints I took this.
Am I right in assuming the 10 thing is a 10 Ohm resistor?
If, then I did it, if not I have to adjust.


The PCB-plates for both the AMC and DSMhb should be arriving tomorrow morning.
If so I'll present my work in progress again tomorrow evening.

Cheers, Marco.

Hi, unfortunately hotlinking is forbidden and the pics are to big to post via this site.
I solderd quite a bit on friday and saturday, and these are the results:

http://pic-hoster.net/upload/15411/oben.png

http://pic-hoster.net/upload/15412/unten.png

Now I'm looking for the potentiometers. I actually found them in all shapes and sizes, basically 500V, 300°, 4W from 2,5 to 25k Ohms...what should I get there?
I searched in the AMC thread, but found nothing.

Soldering wasn't too bad actually, only the extra on the thick traces made a few problems because they kept flowing into each other, thus creating short-circuits...

next things for me are programming the ATMega and creating the cooling-system for the MOSFETs.

btw: did anyone see my last post?
I edited it quite a lot and got no answer to my question...because for the Arctic-Sim a 10k Ohm resistor was used, whilst I always read 10...

You can use 4.7K-10Kohm pots with no problems.
Lower resistance will consume more power, but more stable also. A high resistance will be much noisier while drawing much less current.

A 4.7Kohm pot will consume about 5^2*4.7k= 5.32mW = negligible.

So.

Good news!
I just programmed the ATMega.
I hooked up a pot and its working, had to tweak the multiturn-pot a bit to get numbers from end to end, but now it's working.
Now I'm trying to connect the Force-Profiler, but I cant see the 3 last lines in the USO setup.
They're just not shown on the the monitor. Did this happen to anyone else?
Before I can't see this I can't define the output-axis, thus can't continue...

But the LCD works, including the backlight.
Nice!

Hi guys, its been a long time since I've been here, but I finally graduated.
Now, that I've got some time on my hands I'm eager to finish this project.

I'm getting a new PC and thus have a simple question:
Since it's impossible to get 64bit drivers for a serial pci card I think I have to go with a usb adapter, or are there any other possibilites?
I read on another thread here that not every adapter will work, hence I'd like to either know the spcifications that have to be met or if this one would be fine: http://www.mindfactory.de/product_i...er-USB-A-Stecker-auf-9pol-Seriell-Buchse.html

Btw: the new PC will have 3 cores, thus 1 can be determined for the AMC alone

Last but not least I added the pix of the front and back of both the AMC and double-H, the chips are mounted and the ATMega is programmed (like written in the post above).