Mario's Tronic Joy Based Sim

Hi Mario,

Its pretty easy to make your own simple joyrider profiles. I have just started experimenting with my Joyrider and have so far got Rfactor, LFS and No Limits Coaster 1.7.1 to work with my simulator.

First choose the game plugin that you want in the Force Sender. Then in the profiler just map an output 1:1 (gforce) plugin to the pitch and roll axis. Choose the right sender input in the plugin options (use longditudinal for the roll axis and lateral force for the pitch axis). Next play around with the minimum and maximum values until you have a nice range of values on the real time analyser.

To get No-limits to work you need to use the force injector. Click the online database button search for limits and the choose the right profile for your version.

I hope this helps.

Simon

Hello Simon. I am a several steps behind you.

Looks very promising Mario! You are definitely on the right track. If you get both axis working with the TestPlugin, test your construction for speed and also weight before you sit in it.
Make sure nothing is getting loose and everything is rolling smoothly. I probably don't have to tell you that :yes:

When you get your IRFZ44N transistors watch out for excessive heating. As you probably read, you will need a logic level MOSFET on the low sides of the H-Bridge because the AND gates drive them with 5V, you need at least 8-10V to open the regular ones fully. You loose efficiency and power by not opening them fully.

Keep it up,

Adam

Yes. The IRZ44's are warm after my tests while the irf4905's are cool. I am waiting for the logic level ones to arrive now along with my safety limit switches and diodes.




Mario

WOOHOO!!!! time to take a ride!!

Mario,

Well done on getting your simulator working. I see you have mounted your roll motor similar to how I have mounted it on my simulator. You can see my latest pictures here: start-of-a-joyrider-based-simulator-t1804.html

Do you have a problem with the belt going slack when your sim is at full tilt? Mine does this and the belt starts to slip. How did you overcome this? Is there some spring in your belt mounting arrangement?

Simon

:clap:

Very nice! I really like your progress.

Thanks Frakk!!
I am finally finished!!
I got LFS working and I am officially Joyriding!!

We want video!!!!

You are very welcome! It makes me happy that I'm able to help and you find it useful.

I am finally finished!!
You are just getting started. Trust me.

Could you make some benchmarking tests on a video? I am interested in what your setup is capable of in terms of speed. You could use the test sliders for full speed limit-to-limit motion, shaking, and whatever you can throw at it. Of course safety first!

Frakk is right... you are just getting started

I done the ultimate test on it by presenting it on a public event (Athens Digital Week 2008). More than 100 people were riding it back then without any damage!!

Mario must be having fun with his newly completed toy... lol

yes it is.

This is my first actual driving video.

Looks great so far!

How does it feel? Tell us about the things we cannot see! Do you feel it is responsive enough? Any delays?

Now you have it together, the hard work can begin. Fine tuning it to give you the best feedback and figuring out your hardware's limits.

Great work!!

Great job!

You may try to increase the roll speed and movement range a little, in case the pulley belt is able to keep traction. Other than that, it works quite well already imho.
Perhaps you should increase the maximum value for longitudinal g-forces a little, so you dont run out of movement range in high revs.
Have a look at playtime 00:35 to see what I am referring to.
Smoothing isnt that adequate for a Formula1 car imho.

You can check the sync by comparing sim movements with game sound (engine e.g.)

Regards

Hello

Thank you all for the kind words.

ego: yes I know, it is kinda obvious on the video it looks good, but your body can feel it much better if there is a delay.

What did I tell you?

Adding vertical movement isn't going to be an easy task. I would think it would be easier to start from scratch than to add it to your PVC tube frame.
As you described, yes the plastic pvc piping is going to feel like plastic and it will bend. A better solution would be using aluminum tubing or T-Slots, but that is expensive. Steel tubing will be very strong, but heavy.

Here is what I would do:
-Try to use as many triangles in the geometry as possible.
-Use steel for the stationary frame. It will be cheaper than aluminum and much heavier. Heavy is good, because you want the base to be solid and not bounce around.
-Use aluminum for the structurally critical moving components. Ex, two large tubes on the sides. It will be light and rigid, just what you want.
-Use pvc pipes for the rest of the non-critical supporting parts that doesn't need to be that strong or rigid.
-Also consider strategically placed steel wires. They have incredible pulling strength to weight ratio and practically cost no money.

The frame geometry you have right now isn't the best for getting in and out as you probably realized by now. It is pretty much like a car with it's doors welded.
For your second frame you might want to consider something similar to the Dreamflyer:
http://img.hexus.net/v2/internationalev ... arge_1.jpg

You can get good, high quality pots to increase accuracy. There is also an option to use magnetic hall sensors that are non-contact. I haven't worked with them but others on the forum have tried it.


-Adam

Adam and Dominick - I have a surprise for you guys.. :brows:

I will post pictures in a little while.