Tutorial Mjoy16 USB AVR Joystick

A .hex file is not an assembly file and has no use for us other than programming it on a chip.

I'm afraid you have to look at other options.

I will try to modify source code from Atmega8 to Atmega16.

HalenTech

Why not build a Mjoy8?
Mercury firmwares are option for Racing Sims.

And Mjoy8 code allow modifications - if you know how.

Sokol1

Hi Guys,

I always wanted to build my own simulator from quite a time... I am a fanatic rally fan & am preparing to debut in rallying soon!! My target sim to the build would be Richard Burns Rally.

I have lately built a MJoy8 (with ATmega8L-8PU, is this the right chip?) with components sourced locally near my place. I managed to wire it up right & also programmed the chip with the guidance from http://www.hux.net.au/ Precisely its this board that I have built http://www.hux.net.au/wp-content/upload ... oy_pcb.gif I want some help as I found that the device is not recognized when plugged with the USB of the PC.

Finally bumped with this wonderful community here! My brother is a embedded engineer, & he pointed out that ATmega8 doesn't have a onboard USB, hence it is not recognized in the WinXP as well as in Win7. Its been a while that I have handled the soldering, & this happens my first digital circuit project.

Please help!

Regards,
Ashok aka. tantragna

Since you are using the Mjoy8, you should post in the Mjoy8 topic.

Your brother is right, it doesn't have onboard USB, but that is not your problem. The Mjoy8/16 uses a bitbang USB firmware.

Try reprogramming it and make sure you set your fuses properly. 0 means programmed, 1 means unprogrammed in some programmers.

Can anyone give the link to the Mjoy8 thread! I am searching it for a while but not successful!

I was looking for it too, but then realized the beginning of this thread is about the Mjoy8 which then turned into Mjoy16 as time went on.

Sorry.

Tantragana,

Look for build mistakes: bad solders, trails short circuits, wrong placed components...

I already build around 10 Mjoy - 8 with Mindagas/LazyCamel firware, with Mercury firmware (different layout), 16 with 1.3 firware and different layouts - some I design.

Many dont work when plugged into USB, causes: bad solder, wrong placed components (inverted diodes : ), bad USB cables (reuse mouse and keyboard cables is not good idea). but when corrected all work.

Next build: Mjoy8 Savio - with different electrical layout, optimized do better (stable) voltage output to work flawless with DIY HALL sensor assembly.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us

This layout use two more electrolyte capacitor and two voltage regulators.
http://img210.imageshack.us/i/mjoy8savio.jpg/

Sokol1

Thanks Sokol1 & Frakk!

I have checked the circuit many times before I put it on use, & still cross checked this one more time & found no errors in the mechanical buildup. I took almost 2 days (entire weekend) to build it. I had one mistake, due to which I was not able to flash it, but rectified it & had cross checked it many times & found OK.

Attaching few pics of the circuitry..
http://img220.imageshack.us/i/dsc00878re.jpg
http://img560.imageshack.us/i/dsc00879x.jpg
http://img18.imageshack.us/i/dsc00880uo.jpg

Can somebody guide me about the right fuse settings for this setup. I have currently flashed the chip with Lazycamel_firmware with the Car 3 speed hex.

I just curious. Where you find this LazyCamel Car 3 speed HEX?

If is from Mercury page, this is not compatible with these PCB used (draw with Midaugas scheme).

Sokol1

This is the link to the post made by you, with Mjoy8 as its heading! mjoy16-usb-avr-joystick-t726-330.html

Tantragna,

The PCB that you use to make Mjoy8 is not suitable to use with firmwares modified by Mercury since Mercury use different pins to Columns and Rows.

For this PCB (that you build) use Mjoy8 v 1.2 firmware, posted by Tronicgr in first post of this tread: download/file.php?id=345

Sokol1

I had tried this version of the firmware too, but it is still not working!

Can somebody guide me about the fuse settings. The board is still not getting recognised in the USB

Finally its working now!! The problem? It was mechanical as with the statistics of the site! I had installed an LED in the USB D+ instead to the +5v source & hence it was not communicating with the PC... what a joke isn't it? Silly one. I had left it off for a few days until I could start thinking in a new perspective & it worked as it used to do earlier (my brain )

Right now there is a lot of disturbance in the analog signals & I am still yet to use shielded cable for the pots.. so the issue I guess! Hmm am sure!!

Also kinda rigged a fast DIY with steering with twin pedals in a couple of hours with the bits that was at home! cost of rig, $0.. lol since I had the necessary screws & hardware & tools to do the job quick!

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/_UiqVw5_pMdo/TXFqifbIA7I/AAAAAAAADy8/5fveky7sNJA/DSC00885.JPG

:rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :thbup:

I have just come across this forum and am very excited about building my own myjoy16. i was hoping to build it from parts i have laying about the office. i have all the parts necessary except for the atmega16, i do have an atmega162 and they appear to be similar according to the data sheet. has anyone tried to build an Mjoy using this chip?

ATMEGA16-16Pu and ATMEGA8-16Pu are discontinued.

Accord Russian guys they are replaced by ATMEGA16A and ATMEGA8A.



Some guys have ported Mjoy8 code for ATMEGA88 that is more cheap than ATMEGA8.
http://8515.avrfreaks.net/index.php?nam ... c&p=524965
http://www.atmel.com/dyn/resources/prod ... oc2553.pdf

Sokol1

Hi, i just manage to build 2 Mjoy16, one is the design from Frakk and the other from Senetor. Everything works grate and i would like to thanks both of you. Here it is my two PCBs (and i know pin21 is broken : ):

[img600px]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll48/yiannis_741/HOTAS%20kai%20MJoy16/P3090111.jpg[/img600px]

and

[img600px]http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll48/yiannis_741/HOTAS%20kai%20MJoy16/P3160150.jpg[/img600px]

I am currently building a version of the Mjoy16 but i am having some issues. The 82 resistors was acidently replaced with 82K resistors and that turns out to be a problem. Another issue is that fact that i am flashing the chip via a STK500 devel board through avrstudio 4 so i still need to figure out the SUT_ values for the crystal as i cannot get it to work. One last thing is the 10uf/16v where i am unsure if 16V is nominal or max voltage as in Denmark a 10uf/25V is the only one availeble if not a smd component.
I know that this is a rather old tread so nothing is formed as questions but any input is valued.

Yes, there is a big difference between 82 and 8200.

The startup fuses shouldn't bother too much, I think your problem is somewhere else.

10uf/25V will be fine. You can even avoid this capacitor or use a lower capacitance like 1uf or 4.7uf. 5V is the highest voltage in the circuit, anything above that is enough.