Showroom My 3 DOF seat mover + GS-4 + Simvibe

Looks good!
can you share URL and cost of this 40A PSU, please?

I got it from Jaycar and it was $239NZD

http://www.jaycar.co.nz/Power-Produ...A-Switchmode-Laboratory-Power-Supply/p/MP3089

yes its a fuzzy picture of a motor, so what do you need me to say?

Hello. @bsft

You can read that aboves for my question.

but I will try of here.

in the your guidences, below...
with setting the feedback, once I fitted a lever, I unscrewed the gearbox from the motor and turned it but hand to the most level position I could. Then I screwed it back on.

and my question...
- but I don't understand for what turned. It is from worm geared head of shaft or just motor of shaft? because as you know is not move by hand. so you mean is the motor of direct conneted shaft? your guidences will be apply for this motor?

the specs 12v 250w motors 60:1 gears ratio and 50rpm with worm geared head.

I needs your help...

the worm gear head, take it off and turn it by hand so the lever you fitted is in a level spot, then once the pot is fixed to it, you can set feedback withe adjusting the actual pot.

Thanks @bsft

Sorry but I,m not sure what is the shaft...

yes short in understanding me.

it is like this lever and take off it from the motor?

if you can then could you upload that point picture?

@bsft I think of the my worm geared head with motors some differences... or I am short in understanding to easily... I am still thinking about your by means...

and worm geared head take off from motor but as far as I remember or know that is not move to shaft by hand so same take off it or not...

yes I am a idiot... so Help me please.

Hi. Your question was for @bsft and I'm not sure I even understand the question all that well but, let me try to guess an answer:

1. Adjust your lever so it's a center position (ie: seat and gearbox are at middle point of travel)
2. Set your potentiometer to its middle point (half travel) and connect it to the output of your gearbox
3. If for some reason you can't turn the gearbox to set it to the middle point, remove the motor and turn the gearbox input shaft by hand until it's set correctly.

I can't tell from the pictures but if your motors have dual shafts, no need to remove it from the gearbox - if that wasn't already obvious.

Did I get what you're trying to ask right?
JR

I have been looking at the same Worm gears!!!!
They look great as they have industrial standard with oil in them and bronze gears, i dont know why swedish retailers are so negative when ive phoned them!
ive phoned the whole day trying to get somewhat the same motors Peter is using........even called the importer.
So ive chatted with a chinese woman about theese. Good support i must say.
Whatever i want, they can supply, motors etc. She even asked about me promoting them ......lol if so im having em for free!
Lucky you live in Korea mate, techcity no:1.

I ordered a couple of those a few months back. They were shipped very quickly directly from the manufacturer out of Ali Express.
They have good cosmetic terminations and come with the shaft keys. There's a huge variety of models with different input shaft/bores, output shaft diameters and motor flanges. Very flexible with mounting holes on nearly every corner.

Internally, they come quite a bit too tight and hard to turn. You will need to change your oil after about an hour run. The problem is that they use open bearings everywhere that share the same oil bath so bits of bronze will travel to the ball bearings and kill them. They also picked a very inefficient input shaft seal. It takes twice the input power to start moving these versus my other gearboxes. After about an hour running, the gearboxes were burning hot. I used ISO-32 oil which is especially designed for this application. Even after some break-in runs, these units are still a lot noisier than my other gearboxes.

The only reason I'm using these is because they have dual shafts. Otherwise, I would have to hang a pot at the end of the single shaft boxes I have and risk constantly tripping on them or worse. But if they annoy me too much, I'm going back to those other gearboxes that are far more efficient, smooth and quiet.

JR

jr
The ones ive been looking at have a sealed compartment for the gears itself. Just look at the prints.
So i hardly think that will be a problem, but ofc this is a chinese product more than half the price of a euro or italian made product.
But thats whats we have to face unfortunately when the wallet suits the needs.....im sad to say.
But like the Motion dynamics ........might be good or a really good product.
I can order 5 of theese for the same price.... so if i hit the jackpot..fine by me.
Fredrik

And the wormgear is made by the same manufactuer thats makes Transmotecs drives for Europe, wich i called today and their technitians said its the best you can get today.

Transmotec sells loads all over the world and i hardly see why they should sell shit....really.
The thing he said ......there is copys wich aint good..gears and ballbearings aint same as the original.
This company makes the same drive for motion dynamics....though the not industrial one if im correct and understood salesman correct.
Fredrik

Ah soz not my intention to impose or hijack, my bad if i did something wrong. Just answered to the post i got in mail and didint check if it was my post .
My Bad.

@Avenga76 awesome build mate. I see you are a New Zealander, if your in chch sometime give me a yell I'd love to show ya my rig and get your opinion on improvements I could make etc

How do you find your battery charger now? Do those 7ah batteries run well? I can pick those up pretty cheap myself

Thanks! yeah, it is cool to see some other kiwis building motion simulators.

I am up in Auckland so it is a bit of a trip but if you are ever up this way feel free to pop in and check out my rig.

I had to swap out the battery charger because it was a bit too smart for it's own good. It did a few things that I didn't like, firstly it would complain if the battery voltage dropped below 12v, it had a threshold that if the batteries dropped below that then it would beep and flash the battery warning light. Secondly it would only put out 20A in the float stage so it would let the battery drop until it got low enough then it would go in to the bulk stage and up the voltage to 14.8-15.4v while it brought the batteries back up.

I have switched out to just a plain 13.8v 40A power supply and it works much better.

The 7ah batteries work really well. They are only there to absorb the big bursts of current from the motors but it can run just off batteries. I haven't left it running for too long off batteries but there has been a few times that I have forgotten to turn on the power supply and didn't notice that I was running on batteries.

In other simulator news. I have found some 4,300rpm motors that I am going to try with my 50:1 gearboxes. It will drop my output speed to 80RPM but I am hoping that will be okay because I can't run my current motors at full speed anyway.

So I have done some testing with the 4,300RPM motor versus the 5,300RPM motors.

The smaller 4,300RPM motors get much less motor errors. I can still get motor driver error on them if I run the duty cycles too high but it is much better than the 5,300RPM motors.

So far I have only tested them outside my rig so I need to get them installed in my rig so I can see if the run better that the bigger motors.

These motors are slower but I don't have to limit them as much, so I don't know if the smaller motors running at a higher duty cycle or the bigger motors running at a lower duty cycle will be better.

I will do some more testing over the weekend.

Here is a video showing the difference in the motor driver errors.

This first test is a single reverse for 85% duty cycles, the small motor can do this without error but the big motor will error. Multiple fast reversals at 85% duty cycles will still cause the small motor to throw errors

The second test is a series of fast reversals at 50% duty cycles, the small motor can handle this fine but the bigger motor can't.

Watch the video and tell me what you think.

Yes, same PID setting for both motors. I am literally just unplugging the power cable from one and swapping over to the other.

I did some playing around with the PID setting on both motors but I could get anything that made it any better.

I was taking to my motor guy today when he dropped my motors off and he suggested maybe trying a 4 pole motor instead of the 2 pole motors I have been trying.

He also dropped over a new 50:1 gearbox to replace one of my gearboxes which has had a bit too much play in it.

If any of you guys are in New Zealand and are looking for a good motor supplier I would highly recommend Bob from http://www.bgts.co.nz he is really helpful and has loaned me these 4,300 RPM motors for testing.