Showroom My 3 DOF seat mover + GS-4 + Simvibe

Looks good man
I have 4500 rpm motors on my actuators, and yes, I cannot run them full stick. Or I get errors, but PID and motor settings and a tad more profile boot helped set them up nice.
Besides, I got them for free and actuators are a S#$%load to buy. So I use them.

You could try http://www.xsimulator.net/community...bridge-60a-continuous-and-120a-peak-12v.6537/. Apart from the odd DOA MM (may be a supplier issue) they seem to work well on high power setups. I'm using 350W- 4500 RPM motors, others on this site allot bigger. Only testing so far for me, but I have had no problems running them flat out on a big load. Although with @SilentChill latest post maybe not such a good idea - very bad quality control it seems for the MMs from China.

Yeah, I was thinking of something along those lines. I am just really unsure of the whole Arduino thing, having to write code etc.

I like the fact that the JRK's are pretty much just plug and play in SimTools.

I need to do some research and talk to a few of the guys running the MM to see what I need to order.

You could also buy the monster motos from reputable sellers or from sparkfun themselves.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10182

I've been on the lucky side and not had a single D.O.A out of the 5 I bought and only paid ~$7.20 per board.

The vendor I used:
Be warned though, just because I have had luck doesn't mean you will.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Useful-D...50?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item5d4e841786

This is a more reputable seller but based in the UK
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hobby-Co...371?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item20e68676bb

He doesnt need to write a code , but may have to get existing one redone a bit.

One thing I don't get.

In this tread. http://www.xsimulator.net/community...bridge-60a-continuous-and-120a-peak-12v.6537/

They say that the dual MotoMonster setup can do 60A continuous and 120A peak.

But when I look at the product details to the MM's that you linked it says "Maximum current rating: 30 A" and "Practical Continuous Current: 14 A" so about the same power as a JRK.

Do they mean that it is 14A/30A(peak) per VNH2SP30 motor drivers chip, and as the MotoMonster has 2 VNH2SP30, that would mean 28A/60A(peak) per MotoMonster? so 2 MotoMonsters running in a dual half bridge would be 56A/120A(peak)

What are the specs of the Sabretooth?

The maximum rating of one VNH2SP30 is 30 amps, the practical value comes from a rating given by tests done in ambient temperatures by the makers of the monster moto. The datasheet for VNH2SP30 states a continuous maximum output current of 30 amps. With sufficient cooling you could technically run them at 30 amps all day.

@Avenga76 , finally got through your entire thread.
It was a joy to read. Great work!
Looking forward to any new findings.

Hey guys.

I am thinking of upgrading to 3DOF.

I was wondering if anyone has tried it with the Oculus Rift and can comment if it works well.

I am running the Oculus on my 2DOF and it is working really well.

Also the pivot point. How far forward should I have the pivot point, under the pedals?

I have a spare motor and gearbox so I will be using that.

I will have it mounted in the middle between my 2 other motors and I will use a lever and pushrod. Do any of you know what CTC I should use for the lever arm?

that was fast!

I think your pivot should be in front of your pedals.

I have been thinking about it for a while. It was actually your 8020 designs that reminded be about doing my own RTL. Now that I use the rift more I don't have to worry about how close my monitors are.

What are you using for the base that the wheels will run over? It looks like wood.

Is that 3 DOF lift? Or 2 DOF balanced plus 3rd DOF drift frame

@bsft t, Avenga76 is doing a seat mover 2DOF with a traction loss add on.

@Avenga76 , yes wood on the bottom. Initial design had 8020 frame but that raised the cost too much and the wood will do just fine.

2DOF seat mover plus a 3rd DOF for drift/Rear Traction loss

much like @Nick Moxley has on his rig.

I think it should be pretty easy to do. I have the spare motor and everything, I think my batteries will also be able to take the load of an extra motor so it should just be a matter of buying another JRK, making a platform for the rig to ride on, mounting the pivot at the front, putting the main rig on wheels then hooking up the motor at the back.

Thanks. Have you figured out what kind of wood or thickness? I figure that it would need to take a fair amount of weight.

100mm lever over here for my TL, and Yes you want the pivot underneath or very slightly in front of the pedals. For the Castor's i suggest a hard wood, or even steel. My Castor's pick up a bit of the aluminum over time.

Cool. Thanks for that info @Nick Moxley

When designing my base, how much movement should I allow for?

@Nick Moxley have you measured yours to see how far it swings?

I will be using a 50:1 gearbox, should I use a longer lever to make up for the slower speed of the gearbox or do you think it will be fast enough at 100mm?

I'll cut down some 8x4' piece of hardwood likely and I will have steel plates under the seat and at the back for caster wheels to run on.

My rig moves 4"side to side so 8" total.....I would like a touch more to be honest, But I dont know how much benefit it would offer.

You could experiment with a little longer. but i wouldn't go crazy high or anything...Stick to under 150mm... Tho some of the 50:1 motor member's might have more experience with longer levers.