Showroom My 3 DOF seat mover + GS-4 + Simvibe

Awesome. I will get them without the brake or lever. I will draw up some plans tonight and you can tell me what you think.

What size power supply would I need?

There is a local place which has a good selection. http://nz.wellforces.com/power-solu...neral-enclosed-power-supply.html?psu_output=6

12v miminum 13.8 better, minimum 500 watts power supply per motor. Use 2 power supplies.

The motors are only 160 watt each. Would I need something as big as a 500 watt?

The Jrk says it only handles "12 A maximum continuous current output (30 A peak)" A 12v 500w power supply is capable of doing over 40 amps. That means the most the Jrk can handle is a 12v 360w or a 13.8v 414w

Something like a 350 watt 12v is only $100nzd http://nz.wellforces.com/meanwell-nes-350-12-power-supply-350w-12v-29a.html and a 500 watt is over $400nzd http://nz.wellforces.com/meanwell-usp-500-12-power-supply-500w-12v-42a-u-bracket.html

They have a 13.5v 320w one for $150 http://nz.wellforces.com/meanwell-rsp-320-13-5-power-supply-320w-13-5v-23-8a-low-profile.html

Here are a couple of 13.8v power supplies.

20 amp (276 watt) $119nzd http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3078

40 amp (552 watt) $239nzd http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3089

The other option is run a lead acid battery and then use a charger.

At 160w this will draw an average of 13amps at 12v so by rule of thumb (not exact) we can expect a stall current of 26 amps so to be safe, as in not have the power supply shutdown because of high amp draw then a psu to drive to motors needs to output nearly 60amps , I personally get around this by using a DC battery that is wired in parallel with psu, or on my latest rig to show how simply it can be done a 13.8dc car battery and trickle charger, works well, just doesn't look fancy. I would use 2x led power drivers capable of pushing 30amps each minimum, nice cheap and are filtered and protected psu's

Thanks for the suggestion.

I searched for some local LED drivers.

How about 2 of these. they are 12v 30a and only $90nzd

http://www.wavetech.co.nz/PSU03.html

look for 40 amps each, better to have too much power.
Ive had my motors rated at 180 watts overdriven to 500 watt spikes.
JRKS will run 30 amps continuous all day with 45 amp peaks no problems

Cool.

How about this one? 12 volt, 40 amp, $115 NZD http://waveinverter.co.nz/Accessories/PowerSupply/Powersupply-12v-40A

I can find a 13.8 volt 40 amp one but it is twice the price at $239 per power supply. http://www.jaycar.co.nz/productView.asp?ID=MP3089

12v 40 amps just fine.
I run 2 on the desk racer.

Great. This is starting to come together nicely. Thanks heaps for your help.

So in summary I will be using.

2 x 12 Volt worm drive motor 50:1 100 RPM $240 NZD http://www.bgts.co.nz/styled-2/styled-10/index.html

2 x 12 volt, 40 amp power suppler $115 NZD http://waveinverter.co.nz/Accessories/PowerSupply/Powersupply-12v-40A

2 x Pololu Jrk 12v12 USB Motor Controller $99 USD http://www.pololu.com/product/1393

What should I look for in a potentiometer?

heres a link that will help, we have been discussing this on another thread.
http://www.xsimulator.net/community/threads/obutto-ozone-2dof-simulator-conversion.5580/#post-57842
and further down the page on that thread.
Cheers, David.

Dude dont waste 200$ on Power suplies, Look into Server Power supplies Off ebay, You can Score 600w 50+Amp supplies for as little as 10-15$ a Pop.

I personally run a pair or DPS 600pb's

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1581061

Pair or DPS 600pb's here too, paid about $10 each, mod details available everywhere on the net. You can get them pre-modded for like $75 for a pair, if you are squeamish. They are MUCH smaller than they look in the photos.

Alongside a 120mm project box, So ya the supplies are rather small.

Thanks for all your ideas. I work in IT, building and administering server, we use HP DL380's mostly and they would make a great power supply.

After giving it some thought I think I am going to down the PSU + battery path. @eaorobbie Can you post me a link to how you did your PSU + Battery?

I went down to have a talk to my fabrication guys about the project and they are keen to get started on it. I use the same guys who build my real world race cars and classic cars to build my rig so it is nice and strong.

Been a bit too distracted to do up the plans. I just got my latest Sim Racing toy in the mail today. A set of DSD Wilwood pedals.

All switches have internal leds too hence a third connection per switch.
Cut off switch only kills JRK's.
I like to have my fans on separate switch to allow cooling after a long event.
plus charger can be turned off if battery is full, now use a trickle charger so it cuts in and out when it see's fit, good motor home unit, nice and safe charging.
Hope that helps.

Awesome. That is really helpful. I like the idea of all the switches.

How well does that battery last out if you are racing for extended periods, like a few hours?

Without charger running about 4 hours notice a very slight slow about 6 hrs its noticeable.
With charger running - unlimited, runs all day.

To be safe place battery in a proper battery box and makes no sparks or open flames are near it if you may be using it for extended periods, beware over charging a battery is not good if need to charge overnight take the battery outside to charge.

very very good job

Thanks.

I will run the battery in a battery box like I do in my road car. What size charger do you use?



Got my new pedals installed