My SCM SCN5 actuator pin broke...

Hi Fahim,

I will let you guys know if the steel nail breaks, that said, i did some severe testing yesterday and its still fine
So i think i should be ok.

Cheers

Sadly now my right actuator pin broke.... (the other one)
I wil fix it over 2 days, i can make a video if anyone is interested. Maybe i need to reconsider the construction of my sim.

Hi Spendiddd,

Sorry to hear about your issues with the pins. I'm glad that you are able to repair them but it does seem like there is some underlying problem with either your actuator angles or the profiles you are using. I would suggest running with the 25% limiter on or setting a percent limiter within the profile until your sort it out.

Good luck.

....Mike

Thanks Mike, I did run with the 25% limiter. i will try to change the angle of the actuators.

Have you actually tested how much load they can handle in their current configuration using the test plugin?

You will find that changing the actuator angles not only helps to save actuators, but also improves the quality of your motion.

When reconsidering the placement of your actuator angles, you might also consider the placement of your pivot point. This is even more critical than the actuator angles for ensuring that damage does not occur.

Good luck with your repairs.

Thanks for the tips, but actually i never change the setup since december 2007 and assembled according to the frex manual. maybe its just age and run time of the actuators? as you can see in my video's there is nothing strange about my setup, is there?

Regards,

Rob

I hope that this won't be considered competitor bashing, but it is my opinion that the Frex is incorrect, most especially for SCN5 150mm actuators. This is evidenced by the fact that many people have actuator damage using that configuration.

I have a test platform here that I use to test a wide variety of actuator angles and configurations. I can tell you with 100% confidence that you find the actuator angles used by myself and now Ledfoot as well to be able to handle significantly more load.

As a result of this increased load handling, the actuators are then able to move you more quickly as well resulting in an overall improved experience.Just 1.5 inches of difference has a HUGE impact on performance.

I highly suggest kicking your rear actuators out at least 2 and widening their mounting points by as least as much.

:

I agree with you Bernard, i think it's a compromise:
the more your actuators are moved away from the pivot, the more you will have of facility (for your actuators), but less feeling. It's the same thinks for the spacing between each actuators.

Splendiddd, would it be possible for you to take a picture of your simulator so we can see the current setup. Is your setup like the FREX. (i.e angles)

It can be good for people to know HOW NOT TO SETUP thier motion sims. Anyway it is a good job you can easly fix your actuators yourself.

@splendiddd: Good luck, m8 :thbup: ! I hope, you'll get it fixed asap !!!

@Bernard: Thanks for sharing your knowhow ! Could you tell us the recommended width between both actuators on the upper and the lower side on the one hand and the recommended distance between the pivot (rubber or cardan) and the lower side of the actuators ? There are big differences in the quality of the motion, I've seen that by myself - and I'm also still testing to get the best out of my simulator. Would be great ! Thanks in advance, Bernard : !

I hope that I haven't skipped a concerning thread here... don't know if something referring to this subject still exists.

Thank you guys for all the replies, i will try to adjust my actuators more to the back 10/15 cm?, though it won't be easy because i have a metal plate on the bottom of my rig. I test that tomorrow (took a day off hehe). This is my current setup:











If Mike or Bernard could make a example picture please post this for reference.

Thank you in advance :yes:

Rob

One way or the other i need to get me new actuators in the near future, after a frustrating day yesterday, they both broke 8 times (!) I managed to come up with a radical solution. the pins i used just fell out because they don't stick too well in place. now i've drilled holes of 3mm thru the rod and placed a bolt and nut in them, if this brakes its all over i think.....

See post on adjusting current setup:

building-a-proper-motion-base-for-scn5-s-t2216-20.html#p21183

Here some pics how i did the fix....only i need to replace the normal nut to a locknut. Stores are closed now i will buy some tomorrow and test the actuators.









EDIT: It works, now i hope they last long enough till i have some cash for 150mm..... :uups:

Cheers

Just an update, it has been 7 months now since i did the fix described above, and they still work properly apart from that, they make a little more noise then they where new. But work fine.

Cheers

Hi,

today my pin broke.

Can you explain me, how you removed the old pinout of the Motor shaft and the spindle? Was there only a hole on one side of the spindle? Mine has only one...

Found it,... had to drill into the motor axle to remove that securing epoxy.

Just fixing the SCN5. When you drill the hole for the pin and use a screw with a nut, isn't there a problem / crash with the overlapping hexhead and nut while initialization the SCN5 (going to the lowest position)?

interesting question as i have my actuator broken and i am thinking whether send it to simxperience to solve it (payin shiping taxes) or to solve it by myself.

Hello
I had an issue with my SCN 5 Actuator .
The motor bearing failed!

With some skills and Tools it´s easy to disasassemble the actuator.
Remove the Plastic Caps
Loose the Screw from the Light sensor at the back
remove The Light sensor.
Be carfull with the segment disc! it´s only very thin Plastic. I avoided to touch it.
loose the Sement Disc, make sure to use the correct Hexwrench. The srew is very Tight!
Bring the rod to it´s max length, loose the Motor from the rodhousing.
You can spin the jacksrew out of the rod by hand
loose the Motor srews
fix the aluminium Endhield in a bench vice. with some carfull beats with a plastichammer you can drive out the shaft out of the bearing.
To remove the Frontshield you have to disassemble the Jackscrew form the Motorshaft.
There is This small pin which ist glued on the jacksrew.
to remove the glue warm it very very Carfully with a gasburner . not above 100° .
It´s nessacary to warm it cause the Jacksrew is glued with the Motorshaft also.
Now you can turn the shaft by hand.

remove the bearing.
The Bearing is very Cheap 1€
it´s a 625ZZ r normally used in Inline Skates. You can get it easy on Ebay!

IMPORTANT

The Bearing (in The Aluminumshield) AND the jacksrew/ Shaft MUSt be glued together with
Loctite 638/ 648, refer to the Tech Specs Sheet!
let it dry 24H

Glue the pin with 2 Componet Glue

Make sure the Motor spins easy and has no mechanical resistance. ( Do not confound with the Magnet resistance)
Be carfull that there is no metall abrasion / parts on the Motormagnet. it´s hard to remove cause the magnet is very strong .
I used adhesive poster tape , chewinggum will work too.

Assemble everything in the inverse way.

If there are any questions feel free to ask!
regards
Kai