Showroom Newbie with 2 dof

No fans on motor's from what ive tested, I felt them and they didn't even feel warm. My fan/soon to be Fan's are powered off the power supplies.


how hot do the motor's get ? did i just not push them hard enough dave ?

I did tap into both power supplies to run extra 12 volt accessories if needed.. Decided to think ahead for once.

shoulder mount seat movers are less strain on the motors overall, so they may get a bit warm after a while. Nothing to worry about. Ive had a shoulder mount seat mover and the motors were fairly wild, and they got barely warm. Mind you, when the motors are lower down for connection points, like the desk racer and my other sims ive had, I ran wild profiles and the motors got hot to need fan cooling, but thats because they were under a weight load.
The motors will last fine. There is no need to push them to hard for just getting them into a sweat.

Mine get warm on my seat mover but nowhere hot enough to bother cooling them. Even after a 3-4 hr session in Dirt3 (which is a wild rally profile) they feel warm to touch but don't burn my hand.
But if you wish to use fans on the motors than the std 120mm pc fan will work.

Was about to order jrks until my vehicle registration and repairs just cost me $1500. Gonna have to wait a little more. That just put me in the poorhouse for another month.

Good news is that hall effect pots, and heatsinks are on their way.

Ordered my jrk's today, should hopefully have some movement in the next few weeks.

In the mean time I have wired up my shakers and installed simvibe. Instant smile on my face. Well worth the price, it does ad hugely to the immersion level of games.

sounds like a plan

I have yet to take the dive into Simvibe.....The Audio based low frequency's of the games i play have done me ok for now, While being a little tricky to tune for particular games and cars, Especially Assetto. With Simvibe can you set it somehow to use the plain audio for other applications that Dont work with Simvibe ?

No, wont work with audio. Probably would have to swap cqbles back and forth from simvibe soundcard to your audio soundcard.

Im pretty impressed with simvibe and wont be purchasing any games it dont support.

It is fairly time consuming getting things dialed in with it, but at least your having funwhile doing it.

Pots mounted


All wiring is done, just waiting for jrk's and heatsinks to arrive.

Lookin good buddy.

Good work indeed!
but the motor mount look too weak in my opinion: they will move under stress
so you will loose accuracy or may lead to break failure
keep going buddy!

Yes the angle is a bit thinner than i would like, but its about 12" long and I have four more lengths that will go underneath the 3/4" plywood and bolt up to the top ones. So Im actually doubling up on those mounts with the plywood in between. I think it should eliminate any flexing.

Maybe with 2 pieces on angle it may just hold well, despite it being thinner.
Give it a run and repair if it breaks.

Another little note , I use a thin gauge ali on the pot mount , allows for any movement off centre the shaft may have , allows the pot to follow the shaft perfectly, if too solid and you have one shaft 0.5mm off centre , pot will not last long , will eventually bind the bush and pot collar together. A slightly flexible mount is needed. Specially for the fine tolerances that are in the Hall effect pot. A couple of people have had them fail because of this.

Thanks,Robbie. I think I will change to something more flexable as I know I have some wobble in the pots. Better safe than sorry.

Either that or gear drive the pot is best or even pulley's is another option, but I use the centre of the shaft theses days , just simpler.
I actually use slightly different way then most.
I oversize the hole in the bolt end so the shaft sits in there freely, about 1mm over. Now I drill through the bolt and pot shaft and hold in place with a 2.5mm R clip.
This too allows for anything that might be out in the manufacturing process of motors and Simulator.
Makes it a little tricky to set its first position before drilling and pining but the Jrks make this a lot easier.
Set my lever to middle, open the Jrk Utility and turn pot until it reads 50% then drill the hole through to pin it all together.

Bit harder on the Ard setups but believe prilads and rufus little app that goes with their code might allow the same setting up, if not use a multimeter to get a 2.5v reading to know the pot is on centre to the centre position of the lever.
I do this so that I know I have the same range up and down , even though once setup , I don't use the full range.

While I have you here, I have my levers drilled at 50, 63, and 76mm.
Which do you recommend? Don't need a ton of movement, just want it fast and strong.

Jrk's finished. These things are smaller than I thought. Was kind of a pain in the ass.
Heatsinks should be here any day now.

small size but big on power