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Showroom Newb's compact 2DOF build - Moving from a commercial unit to a DIY under seat mover

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by Kranky Pantz, Sep 19, 2018.

  1. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    Just a thought worth considering, keep in mind that if you ever go down the path of implementing a harness tensioning system then the 5th belt help stop the harness from riding up. In the meantime you could mount the 5th belt but not use it just yet.
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  2. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    That's a very good point.
    I'm glad I have the option for the 5th harness point.
    Just wish I'd gone for a 2" strap vs the massive 3" version.
    Mind you, that 5th strap is actually 2" wide, but the other four are 3" ones.

    Oh well, first world problems eh????
    ;)
  3. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    if it is any consolation I went the other way and upgraded from 2" to 3" as the latter has better surface area for conveying motion cues...oh and 3" look cool too ;)
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  4. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    LOL!!!!
    Sooooo........what you're saying is, I'm just wanting something that I don't have.
    He-he!!!!

    Good points...I'll be installing the beastly retention system sooner than later and strapping myself in.

    I just hope that I can manage to get out of it as well. ;)
    • Agree Agree x 1
  5. MarcoMade

    MarcoMade Active Member

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    congratulations for your beautiful work !!
    I was reading about the belts ...
    you could place a third DOF behind the seats to use retention when braking with a small wiper motor.
    I can assure you that in VR diving becomes crazy, you feel much more detached and become more real ..
    greetings and good continuation Marco
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  6. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    Thank you for the kind words. :cheers
    Yes, I'm still enjoying my motion simulator, and having used VR for many years now I agree that motion adds what was missing for full immersion.
    I plan to tweak it during the Spring, and may even be able to lower the seat height and clean up the wiring.
    I couldn't imagine ever going back to a static rig.
    :thumbs
  7. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    Gotta love Amazon!!!

    I'd post a link, but for some reason Amazon ones aren't permitted here.

    10k wire-wound pots generally cost anywhere between $5-$15+ each here in Canada, and Hall Effect pots (if you can find them) are way overpriced for some reason.


    I happened upon an Amazon seller who ships free directly from China, $33 CAD for 20 pots, which works out to $1.65 each!

    They arrived in just 3 weeks, well ahead of the scheduled 7 weeks when I first placed the order.

    Since this is classed as a consumable wear item for my particular design, and with the amount which I use my sim I tend to go through them sooner than later, it's best that I have quite a few spares on hand.


    This should last me a while (fingers crossed).

    [​IMG]
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  8. MarcoMade

    MarcoMade Active Member

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  9. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    I appreciate the comment and idea for fabricating my own Hall Sensors from my old/used parts.
    Unfortunately, you're overestimate my abilities to do that, LOL!!!

    While I do have a 3D printer, I'm not sure how to go about the process. :think
    Any info or perhaps pointing me in the proper direction of those guides would be hugely appreciated, as I haven't had much luck in finding any.
    I do have a few worn-out 10k pots here for testing out your theory of turning them into DIY Hall Effect Sensors.

    Cheers! :cheers
  10. MarcoMade

    MarcoMade Active Member

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    hello if you try to insert images on google a request you will find many ideas on how to do
    hall effect pot diy :cheers
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  11. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    Last night I was playing a few racing titles, and have never really been able to get the "pitch" feel just right since building my motion platform.

    Then I thought about what I'm looking for, and it hit me!

    Perhaps the same solution which works for getting that gear shift "clunk" by changing the values in Tuning Center to be lower in the "Max" and higher in the "Min" categories may work?


    I tested it out on some tracks in Assetto Corsa which have hills & dips (Bathurst / Black Cat Country / Laguna Seca / Red Bull Ring / etc), and it worked PERFECTLY.

    Then I did the same for pCARS 2 and had the same results, and even better with the Rallycross tracks with their jumps!


    When going uphill this causes less pull away from the wheel & pedals, which can feel unnatural and impede your reach to them.

    On the flip-side, by having a lower "Max" value you can have it push you in closer to the wheel & pedals when going uphill, which greatly enhances the feeling of descending.

    Obviously each sim and/or motion platform build will require different values.


    Again, this shows the importance of using Tuning Center to greatly enhance the feel of your rig.

    I hope this little tip helps, as it certainly has improved the natural feel and realism on my little 2dof platform.
    Last edited: May 28, 2019
  12. noorbeast

    noorbeast VR Tassie Devil Staff Member Moderator Race Director

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    This handy little tip is also in the FAQs: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/snappy-gear-change-motion.121/

    And links into the basic FAQ guide to refining a motion profile: https://www.xsimulator.net/community/faq/steps-to-create-a-motion-profile.228/
    • Agree Agree x 1
  13. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    Thanks.

    Yes, I was aware of those pages before, but I never thought to have differing values for pitch in order to help decrease the uphill effect while also increasing the downhill effect.

    Unlike Roll & Sway, which should be equal values, like say "Max 3 / Min -3", I really like how having offset values for pitch feels in driving games, like say Max 2 / Min -4", or something similar.
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    Last edited: May 29, 2019
  14. MarcoMade

    MarcoMade Active Member

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    hi I use the tuning center parameters a lot. for example, to get a lot of progress and feel better braking, I increased the values in the tuning center and then increased the values on the game manager as desired. in this way, on the stroke position I can better dose the brakes (hydraulic system). I think it's the best solution for my rig.
    with low values it was one or all down or all up without many nuances ..
    regards !
    PS: I also use the A5 potentiometer to adjust the amount of effects
  15. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    UPDATES!!!!

    One of my JRK's died, so screw it...they cost far too much now (if you can even find them)...so on to an Arduino Uno R3 + IBT_2 build/ revision.
    Wish me luck!
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2024 at 14:48
  16. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    First draft.....total waste of time...too small to work on...I'm either blessed or cursed with large hands, LOL!!!!

    Attached Files:

  17. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    Second draft....dunno why I'd never thought of this before... why not use an empty PC case as the base for the build?????
    A fair bit of room to mount components and hide wires, right?

    First test fit of PSU's in the case (using a custom cut aluminum plate which mimics an ATX mobo mounting pattern)

    Attached Files:

  18. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    Rear case panel where a standard PSU would mount, but have instead made a custom aluminum plate with cutouts for 3 XT60 ports for the motor wires and 3 aviation connector ports for the Hall Effect Sensors.
    Only 2 are in in use, with the 3rd being ready for any possible future upgrades.

    Attached Files:

  19. Kranky Pantz

    Kranky Pantz Active Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    In the end, this is how it has turned out...and I've named her "Badass Edition".
    You can see that the dual Polulu JRK's have been replaced with an Ardiuno Uno R3 and an ElectroCookie Shield + 2 IBT_2's (plus a spare IBT_2 if needed in the future).
    So far with my testing all is well, aside from a few hiccups such as having to reverse the + & - outputs of the Hall Effects into the Arduino, and one of the motor + & - wires into the second IBT_2.
    Performing like a champ so far!

    :thumbs

    Thanks to all who have contributed to the SMC3 forum posts...you have been absolutes Saints and life savers for getting this up and running!
    Cheers! :cheers

    Attached Files: