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Showroom ODrive Turnigy 190kv BLDC 6DOF - Here we go again

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by SilentChill, Oct 12, 2019.

  1. Tehrawk

    Tehrawk New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    • Like Like x 2
    • Funny Funny x 2
  2. Tehrawk

    Tehrawk New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    You should be aiming for around 1.5m for the longer distance, and .25m where the actuators are close together. The measurements are the same for the top and bottom frame.

    It doesn't need to be exactly this, you can specify the measurements in FlyPT Mover. Mine are a bit off.

    Just bear in mind, that this thing is going to be a lot bigger than you expect. You will need at least 2.5m square floor space, to fit it all in.
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Johannp02180

    Johannp02180 New Member

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    What voltage and amperage is your mains power you’re running the simulator off of? I’m in the USA.
  4. Johannp02180

    Johannp02180 New Member

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    I just looked at the PSU specs, it’s 3x 540W so it’s total of 1620 and those PSUs are compatible with 120v so it’s should be able to run off a normal 120v 15A, correct me if I’m wrong :)
  5. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    My Motion Simulator:
    DC motor, Arduino, Motion platform, 6DOF
    Im in the UK so I have 220v on a 32amp breaker
  6. Pierre Lalancette

    Pierre Lalancette Sir Lalancelot Gold Contributor

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    If I may.
    On my simulator, I used 3 Led power supplies that had 12.5 amp each. For a total of 37 Amp for 24V, running on 120V. I never had any issue with them.
    I had issues when I first tried with server psu (6 of them).
  7. Boa_FPV

    Boa_FPV New Member

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    Does anyone have a link to the 25mm sleeve bearing? Is it also an Igus part?
  8. Andres Balasso

    Andres Balasso New Member

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    Hi @SilentChill your sim seams awesome! Super afraid on start building it my self... but I will try.. One thing wanted to check with you based on your experience.. on the odrive site they now sell 1 270kv motor with 2N/m (more rpmps) torque and 1 150kv with 4N/m torque (less rpms)... The second one seams more similar to the one you used. But I'm not quite sure which from those 2 will be better... Which one you would choice if you needed to build again? Thanks again for all the info shared.. (It's the only thing that make me courageous enough to try it by my self)
  9. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    Not been around here for a while hope your not missing me too much haha :D

    Well SilentChill broke an actuator, ended up sat back on the floor, front right actuator top popped off. So lucky I didn't damage anything else just a few bent tubes and broken PETG [​IMG]

    But hey over a year of faultless running :)

    Time for actuators version 3.0, been thinking about it for a while.
    • Like Like x 3
    • Informative Informative x 1
  10. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Well-Known Member

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    What will be different in v3 ?
  11. Will974

    Will974 Active Member

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    I can't wait to see your new actuator solution :)
  12. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    Not much just tweaks more than anything
    • Like Like x 1
  13. Joey

    Joey Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    So what exactly broke? Did the topcap of the outer tube pop off? So was it caused by an overshoot of the upper travel limit? Or was it the piece of plastic holding the rosejoints?
    Also very curious to your new design as my actuators aren't that different from yours :D
    • Like Like x 1
  14. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    Really hard reverse move, sheared 4 bolts out the top holding the 4 tubes into the end connector that houses the rose joint.

    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    • Informative Informative x 2
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  15. Joey

    Joey Member

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    Damn.. Those are aluminium tubes right? Probably tapped a thread directly into those tubes? Yeah those aluminium threads never hold for very long.
    My rosejoints are held together with a piece of 90% infill pla shoved in the tubes with only one little lock screw so I too might wanna reconsider my design :grin
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Jun 9, 2022
  16. SilentChill

    SilentChill Problem Maker

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    Yeah I drilled to wide when I tapped the tube, not enough thread so I have ordered new tube and will tap them correctly this time.

    To be honest I think they would of been okay if I had tightened them but i think they must of come slighlty loose and wore away at them.

    Just another thing that I will not do again haha
    • Like Like x 1
    • Agree Agree x 1
  17. ahoenksiluman

    ahoenksiluman Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    IMG_20220812_204254.jpg

    im tring to experimenting with different motor...

    can you share your firmware/config so i can try it @SilentChill ?

    im using servo motor with 2500ppr encoder in it...

    are you using custom/std firmware from odrive github..?

    sorry for to much asking...
    i have little bit experience with vesc, but odrive its very hard because it dont have GUI and very hard to configure...
  18. PeterW

    PeterW alias Wickie

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    Hi!
    You will find a great video and all the links on YouTube. Search for Silentchill + Odrive
    Wickie
    • Agree Agree x 1
  19. sci666

    sci666 Active Member Gold Contributor

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    how do you control the DC Motors ? there ae no hall sensors or endstops in die bulding video ?
  20. Tehrawk

    Tehrawk New Member

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    My Motion Simulator:
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    You control the motors using 3 ODrives. Each ODrive can control 2 motors.

    You dont need endstops. When you turn everything on, the ODrives understand that it is at the start position. They can calculate the movement positons from there. The Odrives wont exceed the maximum distance specified in the firmware.
    • Like Like x 1