Peacemakers 6dof Unicorn Build

Had a feeling you might say that. With Brexit imports of stuff like this has really rocketed in price. Looks like people don't use a brake with these, is that right?

Closed loop Stepper motor drives, have small step buffer that is easy to overrun (I measured it on just 1000 pulses deep), and if you are trying to move the steppers fast multiple turns. I remember I had to drop the pulse Rate to 5Khz, and it still was giving me errors.



If you consider the additional cost for power supply for each stepper plug the extra wiring tou would need to add induction or magnetic or mechanical limit switches and wiring for home calibration for each stepper actuator, it will end up same cost in the end...

Real servos are capable sensor less home calibration and run of the wall power line directly. The AASD-15A drives buffer for comparison, can handle 200Khz pulse rate and has no problem dealing with instant 64k pulse packages...

Thanks
Thanos

Hello. I have been following your project for a long time. I also want to build my own equipment. But I do not have access to the 80st m02430 motor and aasd 15-A driver you used in the project in my country. Is it possible to use 80SY-M02430 & SG-15A instead of this motor and driver? Are these two motors and drivers the same? looking forward to your reply

None of us have these AASD-15A servos and 80ST-M02430 motors available local in our countries... we all go and order them naturally from suppliers from china.

I cannot order servo motors from China. They get stuck in customs. So I'm wondering if I can use the 80sy-m02430 and sg-15a driver available in my country. Are these motors and drivers the same?

The sg-15a are not compatible. Maybe you can ask the seller of the sg-15a to bring some AASD-15A instead, he got them from the same place, china

Hi matey,

How have you got your rods conncted into your UJ ? I had mine screwed and glued and just popped one off I presume on a reverse move after a dickhead crashed into me haha, was really really lucky only to bend a few tubes and snap some plastic could of been a lot worse

Hi all, I'm back!!! haha. I mainly had to just distance myself a bit while I worked on the new design, many countless hours of printing and assembling actuators. I was getting a little bombarded by people asking for the new design files. They are coming and they are ready to share. R&D takes time and i have to be able to test it for myself first and make sure i'm happy with it before i want to share it of course. Hope you understand.
Couple that with the time it takes to print parts and waiting times everytime you buy stuff from china and the time it takes to dismantle and then assemble each time you make a revision/modification to a design it can take up alot of time. Thanks for your patience.

Also thanks to the people who have helped answer questions in my absence hehe

So a little run down on what i found during this process...

- The 3D printed ballscrew worked for a bit but the thread eventually pulled after about 30 mins. Now i could have tightened the tolenaces and made it longer to spread the load and i think it may have worked but i was starting to lose interest and i didnt want that so i opted to just go metal ballscrews in the end and focus on the other parts of the design. I got som,e nice C5 600mm ballscrews and they're really great! Dont mess around with cheapies people!!

- I initially used igus linear sleeves, exactly like @SilentChill uses in his design. they were fine apart from very squeaky or creaky.. it was unbearable.. now maybe i only got this because im bearing the load on 3 rods and not spreading it over 4 rods like craig.. but in the end i changed to just a LMUU12 igus replacement (rjmp-01-12) and its been amazing!! the thought was at least if these were bad i could just hot swap out for a metal ball bearing version.. but luckily didnt need to

- The triple rods i used a special ordered from alibaba. They are 12mm polished linear rods. like you see in 3d printers etc.. now i ordered them tapped at each end with m5 threads. they can only go 10mm deep though because they are quite soft because of the hardening they say.. i believe them because you have to be careful not to overtighten them or they will pull the threads! go firm and with thread locker.

- for now i have kept the rose joint up top but i will be changing to a clevis joint soon so stay tuned.

Overall i'm bloody stoked with the outcome and they are so bloody silent. The noisy bits now are the clicking inm the motor couplings.. story for another day.. but yeah, its a dream to operate.. Time will tell though how everything will hold up, like anything.. but i've put a good 30+ hrs through them so far and all has been well.

Heres a bad assembly video of the new actuator and a video of the V3 top hat update explaining the new linear bearings I used.

I have also added triple screens, I used an extrusion triple monitor mount and did some custom work to mount it. heres some pics of the mounting system.. i made custom mounts that slipped over the box tube and bolted it on. I have also added a top triangle to my frame for added rigidity.. this also gave me a good mounted poinbt to take some load on the side screens.

Note: welding stuff in your house is sketchy as farrrk!! haha i do not recommend But sometimes it's better the the alternative of stripping down and rebuilding. I had to weld a couple cracks that had formed (hence the top triangle was created )

P.s. not sure why some of these images are rotated?? haha

Here's a Couple videos of it in action...

You welded in your house !!! Hahahahaha mental you Ozzies

I changed my bearings for the same as you are using now as the squeaks were so annoying.

I've just finished printing all my parts only took a week using 2 printers and 5 reels of filament.

Just waiting for the bearings to come from China, Igus clones hah hope they are OK

I've had an idea how to use VR with the screens in place, I'll keep you updated if I get round to testing it

Haha! well i knew if i pulled it apart i would rage quit and never re-assemble lol. i used a fire blanked and wet it and suspended it under where i was welding. worked ok but it still almost burnt through it in some spots.. eeek! so i wouldn't do anything bigger then a couple 40mm cracks, thats for sure!!

Yeah i'm using the china clones too. such a bargain and they work great. You'll love the squeak free life. Keen to see yours back in action. Did you have to go bigger outer tubes?

Ummm i'm very keen to see your solution with the VR. I kind of gave up for now. didn't try too much though in all honesty. But please do keep us updated. I miss VR

Ohh i have also finally mounted the HOTAS.. it's official.. i am out of room to mount anything haha.

** ACTUATOR V3 FILES**

Here are the files for the V3 of my actuators. Motor mount and bearing mount are the same as original
To suit 80ST motors

My measurements are as follows:

6 x 583mm PVC 80mm storm water pipe (82mm OD x 76mm ID)
12 x 8mm x 580mm rods or tubes tapped at each end with m5 thread
18 x 12mm x 550mm linear rods or tubes with m5 tapped at each end
18 x RJMP-01-12 (LMUU12 Igus linear bearings - china clones from aliexpress)
6 x 600mm 1610 ballscrews
6 x 6800 bearings


Giving you an actuator stroke of ~500mm at a speed of 500mm/s

Enjoy

Build videos see here:

Thanks so much, received all the bearings and rods etc this week, so I can start printing and hopefully have a working actuator soon. I owe you a carton, cheers.

Hi, I modded a few of your files and have added them to this zip file. There is a JPG explaining mods in zip.

Also in your parts list, you list 6 x 608 bearings, all of these I could find were 22 mm outer with an 8 mm inner, where the outer hole on your top mount is 19 mm and the end of the shaft on my ball screw is 10 mm So I needed 6 x 6800 bearings which are 19 outer x 10 inner.
I just thought I would mention this to save others ordering the wrong bearings.

Cheers, and many thanks for the files mate, saved me many hours of work
PS I was wondering if you have the STL files for that UNI Joint mount please

WILL RE-UPLOAD LATER , BALLSCREW MOUNT WAS WRONG I WILL REDO IT TODAY AND UPLOAD LATER!!

The pics below have it just thrown together without any fasteners to test fit.

Nice man! Coming along swell!

Yeah I started to incorporate the spacer into the one model for you but then needed to redo all the hex inserts and stuff so couldn't be arsed lol. Thanks for that

The gap below the ball nut is so when you have the socket head capscrews in then its flush no biggy.. you'll just have bolt heads showing is all.

I initially had recesses in the rose joint mount but because my china rods were like +/- 5mm I left it flush so I could space out shorter rods with washers and keep it level haha.

Like the notches as well. Thought about that but you'd need to make a jig or something to get them perfectly opposite each other. And they clamp tight enough for my liking anyway. Will be good to ensure everything is 100% aligned, but that will also depend greatly on how accurate you get the notches hehe.

Keen to see more updates man!

P.s. which universal joint were you speaking about?

The gap below the ball nut is so when you have the socket head capscrews in then its flush no biggy.. you'll just have bolt heads showing is all.

Yeah I was thinking of using counter sunk bolts and drilling bevels in the steel holes on the ball screw (will need to wrap the threads in glad wrap or something to make sure not to get filings in the threads)


Like the notches as well. Thought about that but you'd need to make a jig or something to get them perfectly opposite each other. And they clamp tight enough for my liking anyway. Will be good to ensure everything is 100% aligned, but that will also depend greatly on how accurate you get the notches hehe.

The pipe is 80mm so you put a piece of 40mm wood on a bench and have the pipe on the bench pressed against the 40mm wood and you are half way up the pipe all the way along then you just mark each end of the pipe along the 40mm wood. I know it sounds genius right ? My Mrs told me how to do it hahaha...

P.s. which universal joint were you speaking about?[/QUOTE]
The ones on your update vid you have them on the shelf, for the lower mount under the motors. You say you got them from Victor?

I'll keep you posted on build cheers!

Nice, sound like you got it all sorted then

Also, thanks for the bearing number fix. I ordered a whole heap of 608's the other day so had them stuck in my head haha. Fixed the part list

The Universal joint base i made was for 65mm u-bolts. i ordered a heap off aliexpress and they're like 57mm so i need to revisit the design the make them work with the shorter bolts. I have a new mount for the top i'm making as well. It will use Clevis joints instead of rose joints. keep you posted on that also