Showroom Project going from wood to steel 2DOF platform

Ok guys,
It's a very simple circuit, i found it using the google o matic
Well here it is,

Use the 10K multiturn to set the offset temp.
All parts are non critical, just use what u have.

I also tested a other circuit i found using the well know LM317 (voltage regulator)

Components are not that critical, the circuit using the LM317 can be adjusted if you use variable resistor in stead of the 2k2 resistor.
I used a 4k7 NTC that was available in my junkbox and and used a 10K multiturm potentiometer.
I did some testing and used 4 PC fans with no problem.

Ok so you just using the LM317 as a speed controller for the fan. Not using it to sense the temp of the H Bridge to turn the fan on and off or from fast to slow. So its not temperature controlled.

Sorry eaorobbie,
But it is temperature controlled, in both circuits i used a NTC. It's a temperature controlled resistor, you mount it on the heatsink.
When the temperature rises the fan speed increases until it reaches the maximum speed. Works like a charm

Okay now a few months later i finally had some time to complete the racingsim rig (well... for now)
Painted al the parts of the rig black and welded heavier motormounts.
The result:

2 x 350W/24V motors and electronics
The electronics i used: 2 x IBT-2 H-bridges (low cost and no need to cool them! even after heavy load en several hours of riding)
Arduino Mini pro (clone) with FTDI interface.
Somehow i managed to kill the arduino so i replaced the defective board.
Don't know what the problem was, but after a few hours it just broke (it only cost €2,5 so no problem)
I also mounted a 22" lcdmonitor for better driving experience.
For now i drive mostly Dirt3, witch has nice effects when driving.

Things to do:
making a sequential shifter, rally car style
Making a digital dash (Arduino + TM1638)
Make it work with other games

small improvement, got my self a 4-point harness for a few euros
keeps me from falling

I must say it give's the driving experience a extra dimension, you feel every little bump and don't get kicked of the seat when leaving the track

Just use duct tape...........

can be a solution for the problem, but i'll got to use a lot of it (i'll stick to the harness)

The IBT_2's are doing well, even under heavy load but... after examination (separating the board from the heatsink you can see there is no heat transfer compound.
So what i did is just put on a little layer of this compound to transfer the heat a bit better tot the heatsink

After blowing up several Arduino's, i'd investigated what could be the problem.
Did some decoupling with 100nf c's and elco's, but that doesn't seems to do the trick.
Googling round the internet i found some info of somebody who is using the IBT_2 for a segway project and had the same problem. It has something to do with a groundloop. the solution to the problem is to disconnect the GND connection on the IBT_2's to the Arduino.
Tested it and it works fine.

its pretty normal practice, when working with higher power systems, to take all commons back to a common point to avoid loops which can wreak havoc with high impedance circuits. No power wires should ever be connected from device to device.

Yes that's correct, so i think the circuit in RufusDufus his post (SMC3 with Arduino.....) needs this modification (no GND connection from the 2 IBT_2's to the Arduino.
Works great here, with no problems

Implemented the new V0.7 SMC firmware with the motion control option (you can now set the amount of motion)
Nice extra and works great.

great work! This feature is on the to do list, in short a must have.

a other software tools to use (some kind of a must have ) is a Telemetry program.
With this tool you can analyse your driving.
I'm driving Life for Speed (LFS 0.6e) and i'm using LRA (because i cant get F1perfview to work).
but no problem, you can load your replay files and analyse (like the real thing)

nice job
i like your seat

Ok next thing to do is to build a dash and a button box
Collected some parts, like switches, pots and a large box.
Made a printed circuit board based on MJoy 1.2 by TronicGr (24 switched inputs and 6 analog inputs)

in the mean time, i blew up 2 of my IBT_2 h-bridges, after some examination it looks like the 74hc244 chips where gone .
New chips cost €0,30 and a new bridge costs around €16,-. The challenge was the fact it's SMD!
ordered new ones, and with much patience (and magnifying glass) got the job done

why not use a bonar board?