RafBR 2DOF Wiper Motor Cockpit

Hi Thanos,
I am using my ATX 12 for each motor.
I was wondering... I tried the same test with only one motor plugged to the HB so may not be the ground thing.
Maybe the ATX? But remember that I tested the motor straight to ATX without HB and them worked.
I am using 250K pot for the motors.
I will try to use a battery 12v 7Ah.
regards!

I tested again and with toy motors works fine. The toy motors works so fine that I assume the problem could be my wiper motors.
But will it be? The wipermotors straight to the power source works fine aswell.

Wipermotors to the HB do not move until the mosfet start to heat. It takes few seconds for them to start to heat and only starts heating when pots are turned to some direction.
The HB have cooler fan and aluminum plates.

I will keep looking for a solution!
regards!

Try using a car battery! Switching Power supply is not the best option to power switching mosfets! Use raw power from battery!

I seen someone using a PSU and a Lead-acid battery on parallel having good results too. And the battery is kept charged that way too...

It is not normal, although with the dMSHB it is expected. The MOSFETs are heating up because the 30 year old switching circuit can't handle high frequencies.

It will not matter, the powersupply has nothing to do with switching the MOSFETs.
I have used switching power supplies with the H-Bridge circuit I posted a while back, without any problems. 18kHz, no heatsinks on my MOSFETs, the wipers heat up way before them in normal use.

I tested with only battery (no atx at all) and the results are the same.

Frakk, I dont get the 30 year old switching circuit you are saying...

These are the mosfets that overheat:

I am using aluminum plates and cooler fan.
IRFZ44N should it have the N letter ?

I do not know much about electronics but I would say it is the mosfets or resistance related.
If I turn the pot to one direction one mosfet overheat. When I turn to oposite side it stops producing heat and the other overheat.
What is the basic difference betwen wipers and toy motors?
With toy motors I can play for long time and the mosfets do not produce any heat at all.

regards!

By 30 year old, I mean the schematic diagram (parts and connections). This technology was used 30 years ago.
Today you can buy MOSFET driver IC's that will turn on/off very fast and reliably to minimize overheating.

It was discussed many times, you should use IRFL 44N, and not IRFZ 44N. Search for more info why.

Are you seriously asking this question? Have a look at them beside eachother (hint: the thickness of the wires too). Yes, the wipers use a lot more power.

You are correct. MOSFETs are not switched on/off properly as I said before.

So the problem is that I am using the wrong mosfet?
If I swap the IRFZ 44N for the IRFL 44N the problem should go away?
I remember this IRFL topic but could not find it again.

Frak, about the comparsion of wipers and toy motors, I do not want to use toy motors on my simulator ok! :rofl:
I was saying that if it works with toys should work with wipers.

Thanks a lot! :

Frak it is not IRFL 44N or IRFZ 44N.
It is IRLF 44N and IRLZ 44N. I found the topic, will try to change it and see what hapens.
Thanks!

Frakk thanks a lot! It was the wrong mosfet :thbup:

Now it is working again.
Wiper motors heats up to 50-60ºC running fast for few minutes, without wheight on it.
Test stops when my PSU shut down automatically to prevent overheat I think.
The mosfets heats up to 50-60ºC aswell. Is that ok, right? :?

As I have already tested the in game (rFactor) force sender without problems now I just have to assemble everything together and figure out the pots adjustments.
The POTs adjustment is made by the 10K multi turn pot on the AMC, right?

Should I put more load of solder on the thick traces?


regards!

Have you tried this successful test with IRFL44N or IRFZ44N mosfets?

Yes, IRLZ 44N is the right one!
regards!

Hello! :yippiee:
I have the pleasure to tell you that my sim is working!
here one video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q1V6VY3QTT4


I just do not know if the profile I made is ok or something is missing. I wanted for the motion to come rest always on center. I mean, when I accelerate the seat lay back and only come to front again when I break or let accelerating.

My profile is only two axis with gforce. One for the x/longitudinal gforce and other for the y/lateral gforce.
Both are have value 500max and 1min.
My AMC is set to 6 for both axis.

Thank you all!
regards! :thbup:

Hi, now I can say my Sim is finished! :clap:
For sure I will make some more fine tunning, but the result is already awesome!
Here the video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kqpKtW_46mw

I am pleased to thanks everyone in this forum.
Special thanks to Fermevc, Thanos and Sirnoname!

regards!
:

Fantastic job! Look great! :clap:

Hello Rafael, okay?

Very nice your project, congratulations.

I had to take a break from my project and now I'm returning with a vengeance.

My boards are mounted, but I'm having trouble configuring the ATmega.

When I turn it into energy and push the reset button turns on the red but no green light.

I am in doubt as to to capacitors and crystal, can you help me?

Grateful

Kiko

Hi Kiko!
If I am not wrong it is right, before you program ATmega the red light is on and starts to blink when receiving the firmware. Than, after you have ATmega programmed the green lights turn on.

regards!

I did a few updates on my simulator.
With some reinforcement the wheel is now by far more solid.
I did reinforcement in the motors aswell.
...and I painted it too. With the paintwork reminds me an old Ford Maverick or something like :brows:
:
Here some pics:

Amazing job Rafael.. well done. I am thinking of doing a similiar one.. but cannot find any detailed instructions on the frame design.. how did you create the frame?

thanks..

Hi omar78!
I can share the sketch of my frame if you like. Its basically a simforcegt with the wheel and pedals attached.
To be honest there are several things I would make another way now, I mean simpler... But its ok!