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Reasonably Priced 100A Motor Controllers

Discussion in 'Motor actuators and drivers' started by Richard Ortengren, Jan 29, 2023.

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  1. Josh_Possa

    Josh_Possa Active Member

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    Not enough, try a car battery (normally bigger than that 9Ah). As @Gadget999 says minimum a 80Ah battery will be ok.
  2. Mevlana_kiskaci

    Mevlana_kiskaci New Member

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    Hi guys! I was wondering if its able to use this driver with stm32 via vnm simulation firmware on wheelbase? Currently bts engaded to the system but the heat doesnt let me use the motor’s capability over 30 percent. Its 30A dc motor probably. Thanks in advence.
  3. Doga Darko

    Doga Darko New Member

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    Would you provide me a link for buying them there is a lot of cheap copy of them.
    Can't find the seller on Ali express
    JIE BO technology rf amplifier store.
    Thnx
  4. Josh_Possa

    Josh_Possa Active Member

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    As far as I know there is not a "genuine" board, all the boards I saw were clones and with similar price so no matters what board you buy (in my experience all of them are bad)
  5. riki99

    riki99 New Member

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    I purchased a 100A motorcontroller. I entered all the wires correctly, but SMC3 does not recognize them. The wire drawing referred to the drawing on the first page, but what's wrong, it doesn't recognize it even if it's mode1 or mode2. What did I do wrong?

    Attached Files:

  6. prophet.id

    prophet.id BOSeTAMPER's Rotary Servo 6dof Build

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    I believe you need to power this motor driver (connect the power supply to the 'Bat' black connectors)
  7. Wagnard

    Wagnard Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    I have the same and it need power on the terminal too. It will make some Color LED lit.
    And SMC won't technically see it.
  8. riki99

    riki99 New Member

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    Thank you very much for your answer. If it's not technically confirmed on smc, can I check it in a different way? Is there any way?
  9. riki99

    riki99 New Member

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    Thank you for your reply, I didn't even think of a power connection.
  10. Wagnard

    Wagnard Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Yes, when the motor controller is powered, there will be a blue led to indicated that. If motor 1 or 2 is supposed to turn in a direction, there will be a red or green led (depending of the direction the motor is supposed to turn) that will lit. The led will lit even without a motor connected.
  11. afrobbizz

    afrobbizz New Member

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    So in the end this controller is recommended over the itb’s ? I want to install 6 wheelchair motor 24v 250w with 3 of this , or is there a better solution ?. Thanks
  12. Gadget999

    Gadget999 Well-Known Member

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    They should work fine - ibt's are not good enough
  13. prophet.id

    prophet.id BOSeTAMPER's Rotary Servo 6dof Build

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    Yes... :cheers
  14. afrobbizz

    afrobbizz New Member

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    Anyone tried the version 60A? Is it good?

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  15. iLLuac4

    iLLuac4 Active Member

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    Bad reviews on the net:
    ood architecure BUT the Fets are for low current. At 25 A the driver burns, so it is proper for low current (max. 10 A) applications. Otherwise the delivery is fast. I think the seller is a seller and not an engineer, the problem mentioned above is not his/her responsibility
  16. afrobbizz

    afrobbizz New Member

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    Thanks, I’ll go for the 100A then! Hoping to get a “original” one…
  17. Horseweed

    Horseweed New Member

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    Are induction spikes a worry with these? If so, what would be recommended to add besides a battery inline to compensate for this?
  18. Attyla.pl

    Attyla.pl Active Member

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  19. Wagnard

    Wagnard Well-Known Member Gold Contributor

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    Personally I don't trust this and normally the 5010 diode is only a path not something that will eat the regen.

    What I do on my end is simple.
    PSU Positive to a "ZP100A1600V" anode diode.
    Cathode of "ZP100A1600V" connected to positive terminal of the battery.
    PSU negative to the negative of the battery.

    In my case I have 2x 12v AGM batterie in series (24v)
    PSU is 24v. There is a trim pot to adjust it. I don't exactly remember the exact value it is set, but I have upped the voltage of it to be just a little under the "float" voltage for an AGM battery typically that is around +- 13.5v (so for 24v it will be 27V). depends of your battery and chemistry.

    Note on this, put the voltage a little bit lower than the floating voltage to actually leave some "space" on the battery for the regen.

    The PSU voltage measurement must be made after the "ZP100A1600V" diode because there is a slight voltage drop.

    I'm not an electrician, but this work damm well for me.

    Power come from the PSU, if there is a heavy draw the battery will compensate, and the regenerative stuff goes into the battery and the diode protect the PSU and prevent the regent to go there.
    This keep battery always charged, they are never hot. (for me at least)
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2025 at 21:27
  20. Nicki9knuckles

    Nicki9knuckles Active Member

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    Hi all, I have been using my motion rig without issue using IBT-2 controllers for a long time, but I have recently upgrated to a higher powered controller that I seen on this thread

    But I am having issues with it. The wiring diagram is for 2 motor controllers and I am trying to wire it up using only 1 motor. I have tried every combo of wiring i could based on this diagram but I am getting the same problem, my motor only moves in one direction when I turn on the sin wave in SMC3 utility.
    One thing to note is when I swap the positive and negative of the motor in the motor 1 part of this diagram I get the same one direction problem but its opposite.
    Another thing to note is that in the diagram it shows A1 and under that A2, but on the motor controller, its actually labeled the opposite. A1 and B1 are below A2 And B2. Which you can actually see is thje case in the product photo in the original post. Which makes me wonder if maybe the labeled A1 on my controller should be going to 3 on the arduino and labeled A2 on the controller should go to 2. I have tried both and i get the same reaction.

    For clarity,
    - I have my pot going to A0
    - Arduino 2 going to the A1 labled on the actual controller
    - Arduino 3 going to the A2 labled on the actual controller
    - Arduino 9 going to the PA labled on the actual controller
    upload_2025-7-24_8-29-6.png

    Anyone have any suggestions?
    thanks!

    Attached Files: