SeatTime's DC motor Sim

Busy with the festive season, but have managed to source and hand fit the required main tube, support tube/rail and multi-turn pot. Decided not to use the purchased support rail, as it was heavy and not really needed for an actuator (maybe if I was building a CNC machine). Now to build the frame to support all this and the motor.

Curious what the Flex coupler is for the on the Far Right with the red bushings.

That's were the motor will connect.

Concept drawing below : although the motor will be covered as that is were the base mounting point will be.

Actuator build continues.

makes more sense to me now

Ah now i see it. Cool beans buddy, Keep it up.

looks god but 1 q if i may.
If your not using the the rail and bearing what will function as the anti rotation for the nut

As previously stated I did not use the purchased support rail, as shown in the photo I replaced the heavy solid shaft and support with a steel tube and still used the bearing.

dopey me missed that bit

Building of the Actuators mechanical parts has basically been competed, I just need to wire up the pot, limit switches and fail-safe relay. If testing goes OK, I will wrap it in alloy sheet.

looking good man.

Alignment is certainly key, this although can be simplified by cutting items together in groups (so they are all the same size) and drilling the end plates while they are clamped together (ensures holes for the shafts are aligned). The Ball screw nut bracket was also complex to design. I had purchased a solid steel one which was very heavy, so I decided to built my own light weight version (may try a commercial alloy one in the future) as this is part of the mass being driven by the motor. The design also had to enable parts to be removed if required. I'm also very interested in seeing how it performs in regard to speed/torque.

After the first actuator project has stalled I was doing, and I doubt its going to happen again anytime soon, I , also have been looking at ball screws to make my own as well.
I can get the alignment fairly well sorted with HDPE plastic blocks as they are cut square, and finer alignments are not that difficult.
The only hassle I would have is finding a suitable shaft to go over the ball screw, I think I might have to have a shaft off to the side, but driven by the centre screw thingy. Well, it may make it easier for me.
Still well done @SeatTime , good to see some work coming along, it will work out cheaper than buying one, but still cost a bit.
My other units were up to $500 for the pair and still not assembled.
Back to square one again.

My center shaft is just 25mm Steel conduit and an end coupling (already had some). Hand finished to ensure it runs well in the ball raced front linear bearing, really not that expensive ($18 from EBay - an Australian supplier). The dearest part was the Taiwanese (meant to be better quality) 500mm Ball Screw and end bearing ($160)- Australian supplier. If you got it all from China, you could do it cheaper (just allot longer delivery times). I ended up not using some of the other stuff that I purchased.

Actuator Test video on Assetto Corsa, - formula car, tarmac, heave only , no sound. Testing looks promising - They are not too loud, the G27 force feedback sound you can hear when I go over the ripple strips is louder. Will try and get more up later with other DOFs/load tests, but unfortunately my camera battery went flat.

Another video with sway and surge thrown in. Still have to rig up a platform on top of the main shaft for load testing. Although I did try leaning my weight on it using a piece of wood (with my son driving) and it did not fail (that's not a very scientific test though ).