SeatTime's DC motor Sim

Racing Mat - Nothing complex going on here it just levers as shown in the first photo. Too hard to get any other shots now that it is on the sim.

Thanks anyway!
I was just wondering why you seemed to have used two axles? instead of only one ?

Yes levers, it hardly needed a diagram. Needed two so that it would work on my rig.

I just fart harder to get the desired effect

Well I bit the bullet and fitted a 'Butt Kicker Gamer Two' which runs via a second sound card and SimVibe, or via the computers sound card mixer. Works fine and fitted perfectly on my seat frame without any extra parts.

How did you mount it ? I HIGHLY suggest sourcing a Big Deep Socket and trying it on the seat bolt. I get 100X the feedback when on the seat bolt Vs anywhere else on the rig.

A deep socket or anything else was not necessary, my rigs seat frame is made out of box sectional steel which just happens to be the perfect size to attach a Butt Kicker to.

Could you entertain a Canuck for a Minute and try it out ? I can almost guarantee you'll get more out of the Gamer. I also have a Gamer 2 on my "Seat Frame" and its 1/2 of what it was on the Actual Seat Bolt.

So your saying that the socket allows the Gamer2 to 'move' more and as such transmit more resonance to the seat? Update: Tracked down the photos of your system, understand the difference now - will give it a go.

Yes there's something about the Gamer cage and a Socket mount that transmits WAY more feedback. I personally feel most guys with shaker's mounted to their Base frame with Literal Linear feet worth of frame/rig between them are Essentially wasting a Bunch of feedback.

So I fitted the Gamer 2 to a socket onto the seat mount bolt as recommended by Nick and yes I have to agree there is more movement from the shaker, but as I have a heave module in my seat I now just feel it mainly on the side the shaker is mounted. Will leave it there for a while and see how I like it. Would like to fit another one to the other side, but at around $250 each this gets expensive fast.

100% agree with you on Feeling it more on one side, But At least in my Case, With the shaker mounted to the frame i had to Turn the amp up TO clipping point to feel the same Vibrations as when mounted to the socket with 1/2 the volume. Therefor I Invested in a couple LFE's and dayton amp setup which proved to Not work as i had thought and i had to have a pair or Gamer frames sent to me from Buttkicker to use on Sockets instead of the LFE mounts. (Special situation from Guitammer Co.)


Yes I tried 3-4 different mounting positions/ways to mount the LFE's and Nothing made them work like the gamer 2 does.

Finally got around to fixing my pedals so they are spaced the same as my real car and I can now heal and toe with the side of my shoe like I am use to doing. Every bit helps.



Added some rubber with the piston mod to firm up the pedal to better represent a real car.

Piston mod - note O-Ring.

My Oculus Rift DK2 is now being processed/shipped. Really excited to try this out with LFS, which now has support for DK2. Current reviews are positive.

that will give a ride !

Questo è uno dei migliori progetti che ho visto secondo il mio parere!! Complimenti. I movimenti sono molto realistici come una vera auto da corsa soprattutto l'accellerazione e frenata sulla slitta avanti e indietro era un idea che avevo avuto diverso tempo fà perchè non mi andava giù il fatto che il sedile andava su e giu per simulare accellerazione e frenata non mi piaceva la sensazione che dava.... e per questo motivo voglio fare un upgrade al mio sim e portarlo a 4 DOF ... ma tu mi hai bruciato sul tempo L'unica cosa che vedo da correggere secondo me e la velocità dell'accellerazione guardando i video mi sembra un po lenta... io credo che su un auto da corsa l'accellerazione ti deve attaccare velocemente al sedile almeno e quello che voglio fare io e la frenata quando si inchioda di colpo sul pedale del freno deve andare avanti ma deve anche inclinarsi un po il sedile in giù . Ho visto che hai utilizzato delle ruote di gomma sul motore centrale... non era meglio una trasmissione a catena? come hai già fatto per la perdita di trazione. Forse sono le ruote di gomma che non fanno tanto grip?



This is one of the best projects I've seen in my opinion !! Congratulations. The movements are very realistic like a real race car especially the acceleration and braking on the sled back and forth was an idea I'd had some time ago because I do not go down to the fact that the seat went up and down to simulate acceleration and braking I did not like the feel of it ... and for this reason I want to do an upgrade to my sim and take a 4 DOF but you have me burned at the time The only thing I see to be correct according to me and having accelerated the speed by looking at the video it seems a bit slow ... I think about a race car acceleration you must attack quickly to the seat and at least what I want to do and braking when you hit nail on the brake pedal should go ahead but must also lean a little down in the seat. I saw that you used the rubber wheels on the mid-engine ... it was rather a chain drive? as you have done for the loss of traction. Maybe I'm rubber wheels that are not so much grip?

Thanks for the complement, the rubber wheels did not last long on either the surge sled, or traction loss, they were both later changed to chain drives. If I was going to do it again, I think a DIY screw driven actuator would work best, but at more cost (although some of the Chinese parts are not that expensive)

Ok, quindi era già prevista una modifica credo che la soluzione più economica e funzionale sia la trasmissione a catena se guardiamo anche l'aspetto economico
Ho una domanda : che tipo di potenziometro hai usato per la slitta? la corsa avanti e indietro quanti cm max riesci a fare con quel potenziometro?


Ok, so it was already provided for a change I believe that the most economical and practical is the chain drive if we look at the economic aspect
I have a question: what kind of pot you used for the sled? running back and forth about how many inches max you can do with that pot?

Hi
I used a 5 turn pot for both the traction and surge tables which is mounted separately from the motor.
Video for heave? I'm sidetracked with this at the moment(see below). Interesting times.