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Simulated Wind using MonsterMoto and ArduinoUno

Discussion in 'SimTools compatible interfaces' started by SilentChill, May 15, 2015.

  1. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    No. That wiring is for a motion simulator.

    The wiring instructions are literally on the first post.

    And also from the first page

    You can't get any clearer than that. You just put the MM on top of the UNO, then connect the power supply to the left side and the blowers to the right in this photo. There is heaps of info in this thread on how to add cooling fans, heatsinks and inductors etc.

    [​IMG]
    • Like Like x 1
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2017
  2. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    great ! i see... thanks
  3. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    ok... arduino is on the way, MM too, 02 seaflo 270cfm. 01 PSU 360watts, 12v, 30a. My new question is: for monster, needs a batery, or PSU is sufficient?
  4. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    The PSU is fine.

    All of the Wind Simulators I sell are just using 12V 20A PSU's. Each Seaflo only draws around 4.75A, so around 9.5 Amp all up. I go 20A just to be on the safe side so your 30A PSU is totally perfect.

    I then mount my controller boxes on top of the PSU like this

    [​IMG]

    Or like this
    [​IMG]

    The other thing you might want to look at is adding some inductors. All the specs and wiring diagrams for the inductors are on the last couple of pages.
    • Informative Informative x 2
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2017
  5. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    thanks for fast reply ;; i still really excited to put this wind sim ON !!
  6. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    ok, here i go again. ON inductors page, i see diferences about real SEAFLOW and the fake one. My question is... the fake are ok for use or no? because on AMAZON and huge departments, only have seaflow 4 with WITHE fans...

    about inductors, may i use a 470uh 2a?
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2017
  7. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    The fakes are okay to use in that they won't blow up or catch fire but as the post says, they use a cheaper motor and bearings so they are slower and noisier.

    Hopefully the ones you brought are legit Seaflo blowers. When you get them post up some pictures and I will tell you if they are legit or fake blowers. I posted how to spot the difference in the post on the other page, there is 3 differences that you can tell from the outside.

    I buy all my Seaflo blowers from a legit store here in New Zealand.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    yeap.. i see differences.. and i buy fake :( because all stores including amazon sells only white fans version

    about inductors, may i use a 470uh 2a?
    i live on brazil.. so... many difficulties for buy pieces...
  9. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    I think the Amazon photos might be out of date. I know the ones for the Amazon seller "MarineNow" are legit because I have brought blowers from them before.

    You only really find the fakes on the depths of Ebay.

    For the inductors you need at least 5A and you need 4 of them. I put a few links up on the last page.
  10. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    i sent you a PM
  11. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    Cool, replied
  12. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    is possible to put some more voltage on MM? example... i just test seaflo in a variable PSU ( 35A, stable conversor, variable potentiometer, between 8 - 15v ) and blower simple give me a GREAT results ! about 30 min test, at 15v, CFM jumps to 340, and nothing happend with motors or structure on SEAFLO. No heats. In fact, the two blowers, simple TAKE OFF from my bed rs..
  13. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    I run my Seaflo off batteries that run at 13.8 volts.

    The hard limit on the MM is 16v. If you go over that then it will go in to over voltage protection, I wouldn't go much over 13.8v so you still have a bit of head room.
    • Informative Informative x 1
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2017
  14. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    BTW, did you actually measure the 340CFM? or are you just guessing at that by the percentage increase from 12v to 15v?

    When I tested it with my Anemometer it is not linear. On the TMC blowers I get 80KPH at 12V and 85KPH at 13.8V. That is a 15% increase in voltage but only 6% increase in wind speed.

    [​IMG]

    So you wouldn't be getting 340CFM, more like around 300CFM because it seems to be about 40-50% of the extra voltage you put in actually gets converted into extra speed. So when you got to 15V you are increasing the voltage 25% and because it is only 40-50% efficient then you are only seeing around a 10% gain.

    It's not a massive deal, my airflow straighteners and velocity stacks add way more speed than the little bump you get from increasing the voltage. The airflow straightener give a massive 60% improvement at 600mm

    This is without the airflow straightener and velocity stacks at 600mm, 28KPH

    [​IMG]

    And this is with the airflow straighteners and velocity stacks at 600mm, 45KPH

    [​IMG]

    The PSU's on my wind simulators do have a voltage trim pot and I did think about "Overclocking" them to around 13V but in the end it is not worth it for the small gains you get, you are far better off with the airflow straighteners etc.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  15. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    by the percentage increase from 12v to 15v :) .. im very happy with CFM and strong winds. Dont changes nothing more. Its more then sufficient rs. If i DONT USE inductor at 4k, may i have problems? Inductors on my city is gone. and the ones on posts take a time to post, receive etc etc...
  16. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    No, you can not run 4KHz without inductors.

    You must use inductors if you want to use anything above 980Hz

    If you do not use inductors then the EMF caused by the inductive load of the blowers will cause overheating if you run over 980Hz

    The inductors fixes all of that.
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  17. paulopsx2

    paulopsx2 Active Member

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    got it.
  18. IIISLIDEIII

    IIISLIDEIII New Member

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    Every time I leave the track and go back to the main menu (I'm referring to Assetto corsa,I have not tried yet with other games but I think the same thing happens), the gamedash loses its profile:

    Screenshot (11).png


    Every time you have to go manually inserting it before going back to the track:

    Screenshot (12).png

    does it happen to you too?

    It's not a big deal, but it would be more convenient if you could avoid it.
  19. Avenga76

    Avenga76 Well-Known Member

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    I think I noticed that that other day when I was testing the 8KHz code.

    I didn't think anything of it at the time, I was using No Limits and I think it did the same thing.

    Might be a game dash bug.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  20. IIISLIDEIII

    IIISLIDEIII New Member

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    I need some clarification, I would be grateful if you could help me:

    - looking for a way to reduce or change the overall speed of the blowers, to use them at night with little noise and have a slight breeze in the face or to use whit different cars speed.
    The first thing I thought about is lowering or increase the math value, but it does not seem to work, am I mistaken in typing?
    for example:
    -to increase (for a car that reaches 320 km/h), i have calculated 320/255=1.254
    i put the "MATH * 1.254", but the blowers started out to the maximum right away, and were stuck to the maximum, I had to turn off the psu
    -to reduce for a night use, i put "MATH * 0.1", but it does not seem to work (I always talk to AC).
    It seems he does not tie the decimals
    ??


    - using the last arduino code that you have posted (I take the opportunity to thank you), to the exact, the last with different values of pwm.
    I saw that by default you set it in mode 2, then 8khz PWM, and it all works well (I have inductors and active cooling on the MM) but then I read your sentence "check MM temp at a low fan speed" .
    Why check at low speed?
    At low speed the mm heats up more if it is set to 8khz?

    From a practical point of view, the variation of pwm values, what does it mean?
    What changes in the workflow dynamics of blowers by varying the working frequency values of the pwm?

    thank you