Tutorial SPS - Sabertooth Packet Serial PID motor driver sketch w/SoftStart

Nun habe ich die ersten lauftests machen können.
Meine Hardwarekonfiguration ist
2 X 12v/30A Schaltnetzteil
Saberthooth 2x60
2x Traktionsmotor 90ZYT-199

wenn ich diese Einstellung wie in Bild 1 ( kp 550 ) in SMC3 habe schaffen es die Netzteile nicht, schalten immer wieder kurz ab.

wenn ich die Einstellung von Bild 2 ( kp 450 ) habe laufen diese problemlos, nur haben beide Motoren nach etwa 10 min eine geschätzte temperatur von 70-80 Grad und da ist noch kein Sitz oder gar ich als Last mit dabei!

Gibt es da tips wie ich die Motortemperatur mit den SMC einstellungen runter bekomme?

Now I have been able to do the first running tests.
My hardware configuration is
2 x 12v / 30A switching power supply
Saberthooth 2x60
2x traction engine 90ZYT-199

if i have this setting as in pic 1 ( kp 550 ) in SMC3 dont manage it the power supplies will turn off again and again.

if I have the setting of picture 2 ( kp 450 , thes run smoothly, but both engines have an estimated temperature of 70-80 degrees after about 10 minutes and there is no seat or even a load with me!

Are there any tips as I get the engine temperature with the SMC settings down?

Power supplies appear inadequate. Are you using a battery too as recommend? This will increase available current and also absorb regen current that can heat up your motors.

nein nur die Netzteile.
Wenn ich Batterien benutze muss ich ja auch gleich ein Ladegerät dazu schalten damit die Batterien nicht leer werden oder?



no, only the power supplies.
When I use batteries, I have to switch a charger so that the batteries are not empty, right?

It depends on several factors like the actual voltage output of your supplies, how much regen you get, and how much current gets drawn from the battery. You don't want to overcharge them either. I'd try without a charger first and see what happens with the batteries voltage unless you have a smart charger.

dann muss ich wohl gleich in inteligentes Ladegerät besorgen

wären diese
https://www.ebay.de/itm/2-x-12V-BLE...&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&redirect=mobile
die richtige wahl?



then I have to get right in inteligentes charger

would be these
https://www.ebay.de/itm/2-x-12V-BLE...2143569464?ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid= p2060353.m1438.l2649 & redirect = mobile
the right choice?

The battery you linked to will be fine. And you may only need to but the battery on a trickle charger when your not using your rig. You need to see how fast the voltage drops if any on your battery to make the best decission on a charger.

ok, dann werde ich zuerst die Batterien bestellen und testen wie schnell der Strom nachlässt unter betrieb und je nach dem werde ich das ladegerät kaufen.
Ein normales bis 12v habe ich ja noch

müsste dann das Problem mit der Hitze an den Motoren weg sein oder ist das "nur" ein versuch ob es besser ist?


ok, then i will first order the batteries and test how fast the power goes down under operating and depending on which i will buy the charger.
A normal to 12v I still have

would then be the problem with the heat on the engines or is it "only" a try if it is better?

I can't say how much heat is from load or from regen but in any case your power supply triping indicates you need a battery too or better supplies.

Ich würde gerne ein Netzteil mit 100a nutzen würde?

https://www.ebay.de/itm/Netzteil-Sc...349713?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao% 3D1% 26asc% 3D20160727114228% 26meid% 3De8c5a16a8e1041759959f8de4fe22c04% 26pid% 3D100290% 26rk% 3D2% 26rkt% 3D4% 26sd% 3D292143569464% 26% 3D192691349713 & _trksid = p2060778.c100290.m3507


would it bring something if I would use a power supply with 100a?

It would bring 3+ times more power but probably overkill. And it wont handle regen current any better. But you need to determine why the supplies you have now are tripping to know what actually needs fixing. Unless you have a scope to check it though you will need to add a couple of 30amp min. diodes to the supply output wires to stop regen current from entering. If it stops tripping then thats the problem otherwise you need more available amps.

was für Dioden muss ich da benutzen?
bin da leider zu ahnungslos kann es jedoch dann machen wenn ich weiß wie es geht


what diodes do I have to use there?
I am unfortunately too clueless, but it can then do if I know how to do it

habe heute noch weiter versucht alles zu optimieren.
Motoren werden nur noch betriebswarm ab und an noch kleine micro aussetzer werde morgen weiter testen.
Ich denke ich brauche andere Pots habe deadzone 4

I still tried to optimize everything today.
Engines are now only warmed up and even small micro misfires will continue testing tomorrow.
I think I need other pots deadzone 4

I use a bridge rectifier like this myself instead which is 4 diodes in a single package. But you still need two if you're going to put one on each supply wire. I don't know if you really need one on each wire but thats what I did.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MDQ60A-Amp...ge-Rectifier/382239531614?hash=item58ff40625e
But while they may keep your supply from tripping from regen currents they won't help dissipate heat generated from them.

I use the sabertooth 2x60 and syren 50 @115200 you need a module i got from jaycar to change the baud rate mate ive never had an issue and never touched the script

sehr gut
habe mir jetzt gleich mal 2 Brückengleichrichter kostet jeweils 100A
Die Motorwärme hab ich gedacht, dass ich mal in den Griff gekommen bin mit anderen SMC Einstellungen.
Habe auch gleich das Netzteil mit 100A bestellt
Das hat mich schon am Anfang mit dem TTL-Usb Modul und der Dimersion Software überprüft 115200 Baudrate hinzugefügt

very well
I have now ordered two bridge rectifiers each 100A
the engine heat I think I get a grip on with other SMC settings.
Have also ordered the same power supply with 100A
I checked that right at the beginning with the TTL-Usb module and the Dimersion software was already registered 115200 baud rate

SMC3-SPS sets the baud rate of a new 2x60 to 115200 automatically when you run the sketch.

@Neo_One When you wire the bridge rectifiers the two terminals that are between the diodes are not used. On the terminals you do use the current runs opposite the arrow. If your not sure which wire to put on which terminal though just try one way and connect a motor or something. If it doesn't work then reverse the wires and try again. If it still won't work then the wires on the other rectifier are backwards also.

@

@BlazinH
alles klar dann nutze ich nur den Plus und Minus Pol des Brückengleichrichters
Soll ich dann die Plusleitung des Netzteils dafür nutzen?


All right Then I use only the plus and minus pole of the bridge rectifier
Should I then use the positive line of the power supply for it?

I believe the negative wire is the most important because electrons normally flow - to +. But like I said before a I put one on both wires just in case. My thinking is regen polarity will depend on the direction the motor is turning so it may cause interferance on both wires where a second rectifier might help.

das verstehe ich jetzt nicht wie du das meinst, kannst du evtl ein Bild hochladen?

I do not understand now how do you mean that, you can possibly upload a picture?

I don't have and can't take a photo because I do something different now. But they're quite simple to connect. In case you're unaware a diode on a wire is like a check valve on a pipe. Flow can only happen in one direction.
Therefore just disconnect the neg. wire from your supply and connect it to one of the rectifiers terminals. Connect another wire to the other terminal and connect it back to your supply. If it doesn't output power then reverse the wires on the rectifier.
Repeat on the pos. wire if the supply is still shutting down at times.