Showroom Started ordering stuff... Countdown to 2DOF build.

I think your length looks good. I think a good judge of distance is the total length of your rods should be atleast double your distance of the frame from the ground.....if the sim s on pivot and is 8 inches off the ground....the arms should be 16.

as far as the motors being on the inside, youll like it better that way later. It will look and be more compact.

yes, thats more like it, angle them out a bit like you have.
With pivot height, you can have it shorter, as long as the frame has some clearance when it leans forward.
There is no standard height for a pivot.
I think my foot motor pivot was only 180mm high.
The shortest I could make a pivot was 130mm high.

With motor lever length, Id suggest 45mm CTC
With actual length of arm from motor to frame, doesnt matter too much. As long as its sturdy. A 40mm arm or 800mm long arm will not affect the motion.
Its about the setup of the frame.

Awesome. Thanks Guys.

Some pictures finally...
I have to store everything in the roof (don't ask...) so I managed to pull it out this morning for a few pics.

These are the mount points at the front. They will get another angle coming from the side to the middle lenghts for extra support. (Bit like a formula 1 front end suspension)
(Having said that, I stood on each mount point and nothing gave!)


The full frame with the seat sliders mounted - Pedals will have an adjustable plate - Just here for show now.


With the seat - The seat will be angled back a little when fully mounted.



Of course, more lateral strength support between the two middle lengths and a wheel support to go on.
Hoping to get the base finished this weekend.

Everything is welded, I just put bolts through it where I could for "insurance"

Plugged in the JRK's last night to make sure they work, and all good.



PLEASE be nice weather this weekend!!

really nice progress and hope weather will be good with you this weekend in Wollongong.
i can see you have not soldered pins on your JRK's so a tip from me if you aren't good with soldering, practice on a old PCB and when you see a good result go for the JRK's.

seen a lot of guys here from Australia but you are the one who lives closer where i was born and raised till my 8. i was living in Keiraville but now i live in sunny and unstable Athens

Hi @insanegr - I live just across the way from Keiraville. I have an awesome view of Mt Keira from my place.



Thanks for the info about the JRK's. My soldering is pretty good having built a few projects in my time.

I love Wollongong. I'm from the UK (Manchester) originally but have been in AU since 1999.

True Blue Aussie now - recently became a Citizen.
(Although my Manc accent still gives me away!)

Finally managed to finish the frame today, so I am the proud owner of a "static sim" for now

I learnt a few things today too:

1. Ford Falcon tailshafts have cardboard in them!
2. Making two 90 degree angles from steel for the first time is a joy to behold. (see pics)
3. EVERYONE needs a Tap and Die set in their lives - How did I ever do anything without it.
4. Supercheap Auto make SuperCheap HSS bits. (re crap!)
5. Finding your balance point makes you grin from ear to ear. Dunno why.
6. The motion sim business is BLOODY HARD WORK. Hats off to all builders on here.

Here is the basic frame with the steering column in place. Found two steel tables as junk and one leg fits into the other.
Used an old adjustable wall mount thingymejig with an elbow, re-enforced with steel for the wheel mount.
This makes it height and angle adjustable and can be removed via a screw in base.

Then I made a floor for the frame and mounted the pedals.
I hate the spacing on the G27 pedal board, so I mounted them like my actual car. Clutch out of the way a bit.
When sat in the sim, feels must nicer. Almost "kart" like.

Made an "S" bend for the gearstick (pre-weld) - Doubles as a carry handle for moving the sim on it's side.

The underside of the frame, of course the pedals mount via their M6 holes, and the MDF is bolted via the top.


I had to find the pivot point of the frame by myself, and I found that because I was on a deck I could use the parallel lines as reference.
So I used another table leg with a couple of bolts in it and wedged it into the deck gaps. Then I knew if the front end was straight with the deck then it was perpendicular and square.
The balance point is just under the thighs.
When it balanced, it actually just sat there if I sat perfectly still. I was grinning like an idiot!


The frame with everything attached...



Now to make a base and get the thing moving!!!

Gents,

After a bit of advice. I am making the bottom frame now and had a few designs in mind. (Remember it's a foot mount sim)

First design is a round board holding the UJ linked via 30x30mm steel to a thick wooden plank that will take the motors. This is my preferred design because the front has to be wide to offset the motors, and I can keep the underside quite minimal - this is also the cheapest option. I can build this now.

Second design - full steel frame with mdf at the front for the motors. Not sure about this design as the frame would have to be 1.2m wide and 1.8m long. Lot of steel. Plus my UJ end up 60mm higher then I planned for. More steel, weight and cost :/

My question then is - would my first choice design flex too much with just the Central steel beam? I am thinking because my weight will be at the seat, this will keep that side grounded no worries, but i am worried the front may lift? (Jump around)

Does that make sense? Rough design ideas attached.

Yep - my worry too.

I might just get some thick mdf and make the whole base from that...

Thanks @noorbeast

Think I will just have suck it up and make a combination frame. Steel under carriage with an mdf top for the electrics etc. might taper it in a little toward the back as it need not be as wide as the front.

Finally got the 6.35mm to 12mm couplers in the post today so will get started on the base this weekend. (weather permitting at the moment. Rain again all week!!)

I've been laying it all out to get rough ideas on placement anyway, but now I have everything I need to build the base proper.

Will post pics as and when I can.

Steel frame for base with MDF on top, even 25mm box will do, a few reinforcing bits under where the motors will live, 16mm MDF on top held down with tex screws.
Thats how I do all mine.

I managed to get the bare bones base built on Saturday but that was pretty much it.
I will post some pictures when I am able.

I decided to go with a square front for the foot mount section and a slight taper to the pivot point.
Trying to keep the footprint as small as possible without losing stability.
(Basically, a few posts above, Design ONE merged with desgin TWO to give a taper as it meets the UJ base.)

Won't be able to work on it now for about 2 weeks due to work / family commitments.

The only bonus is that I am still waiting on some stuff from China to complete the build anyway.
Feel like I'm doing a Marathon and got a cramp with only 500m to go... ARRRGGGHH