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Step by Step... approaching to Thanos work.

Discussion in 'DIY Motion Simulator Projects' started by knob2001, Dec 10, 2008.

  1. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi Oscar,

    No, you should assemble all the basic structure of the joyrider as it described in original plans and then start mounting the seat, the pedals and the monitor holding structure.

    If you going to use the rails of the bucket seat too, you should take care leave enough space for the sliding action, front and back. The angle of the seat has no big difference, as long its comfortable for you. But you have to take care of the angle of the pedals, the wheel and the screen though. I've made them a bit adjustable by trying different hole combinations of the Dexion parts and there was many tests until I find the proper positions.

    You can adjust the Center of gravity by adding some small weight in the front or the back, or by sliding the seat front and back in some cases.

    Proper balancing of the frames will give you the maximum performance out from your wiper motors!! So be sure to have it balanced well before connecting the motors and the pulleys on it.

    Yes, I have used bolts as described in the plans, but I had to cut the pipe on one of the frames (don't remember which is A or B) to have more space for the pedals and mount the more level.

    Regards, Thanos
  2. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!!!!...

    The structure more or less is getting done... i'm dealing with the cockpick and the Gravity center, and after thinking a little about what Tronics did, and the bucket i have, it's time to move on.

    This is the structure with the new sizes thanos proposed for each diameter pipe:
    structure.jpg

    You will see it significally thicker than normal joyriders.

    As i told you, my bucket is pretty much the same as thano's one, but unfortunately my bucket didn't come with the adaptor for moving it. As i will use the same pre drilled metal as thanos, i ended with this idea:
    bucket_02.jpg

    It's not an easy thing to move the bucket, but you have a lot of holes to choose where to put it. I have some ideas to do it quicker, but i don't want to upgrade something not finnished yet.
    I just focus on how to attach the bucket firmly enough to feel secure, so there's 4 nuts crossing the pipe. 2 horizontal for join the bucket with the joyrider, and another 2 to secure the bucket and don't let it move. I just need to try it... but on paper seems something strong enough.

    To join the other part, i'm thinking in something like this:
    bucket_01.jpg

    A very strong metal angle, and the tube under or above it. You'll have some space to adjust it... but i need to drill it with the driller i have at work, my home machine is like a toy for such a heavy metal plate.

    Tomorrow and most probably on weekend i will mount it into the joyrider structure to see how it works, and then, the LCD, the wheel and the pedals. From there... the motor and and pulleys and maybe, one of this years, play a little :clap:

    Thanks to Thanos again for his really quick answers and inspiration.
    Regards
    Oscar
  3. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!...

    I must confess this was the most difficult step of building this sim so far: Joining pieces together...

    Once you have the base built, and you have place the large roll axis pvc stuff, it's time to add the pitch movement. If you have read what Thanos said early, it's better to mount the bucket and leave the trial and error small movements looking for the gravity center for later.
    Right here, right now, is where all those little errors sizing the pvc tubes, connectors and angles will become really visible. I am very happy becouse de PVC is a fantastic choice for this model. It will bend around those errors and finally all the pieces match together as if you have used a nano-cutter following what joyrider manual says.

    One advice: Try to do this step with someone else helping you (human if possible... cats are not as helpfull as you may think).
    I did it by my self, with one leg holding a piece, other leg trying to not let the screwdriver fly away, my mouth around the rope that holds the other piece and both hands making holes on the PVC at my back... all at the same time i was focusing on praying to the lord of the simulators to have drilled the damm 200 holes on all the parts exactly where they must go. :thbup:

    After almost drill my feet a couple of times (no kidding here), i have a really brand new full of scratchs JOYRIDER at my basement:
    joyrider_01.jpg

    joyrider_02.jpg

    This is the space remaining between the tubes... :clap: i used some washers added to the bolts that i had to remove becouse the space is really, really small.
    so_close.jpg

    Next move: -No photos on this- Sit down your wife on the bucket for two reasons (3 in fact)
    1. Calculate where the LCD would be and ask her about feeling confortable.
    2. Show her that the weird structure you have been working on the last month is not a weapon to blow out the neighbourhood, and yes, it's something very funny and yes too, the motors will move the whole thing.
    3. (Secret reason, better not to talk about with her): Notice your Joyrider can hold the weigth of an adult, and notice from a third person view how much the PVC can bend without breaking.

    After the successful crash test, no time to rest. Lock the structure and begging to cut the pre drilled metal for the LCD. Although i didn't follow Thanos bucket steps, it seems that the LCD system he used is far better than all the things i thought. This is my cousin cutting machine for the pre drilled metal, and the angle i locked the structure prior to the LCD.

    cutting.jpg
    lcd_step_01.jpg

    More on coming days... :cheers:


    Thank to Thanos and the Lord of the Simulators for hearing my prays
    Regards
    Oscar
  4. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Small update...

    I've been thinking how to mount the LCD, becouse my super-mega-LCD is not vesa compatible (in fact, there are no holes :eek: ). The base is around Thanos idea, and... a little improvisation.

    This is my monitor back (notice the lack of holes for wall mounting) and the way i'm thinking to mount it. I will need to add some others reinforcements, becouse the panel would bend the metal.
    The plan is trying to do everything with the pieces i have at home... i know that buying another monitor will solve this problem but adding 200€ is not a good idea.
    monitor_non_vesa.jpg
    lcd_grid.jpg
    monitor_lcd.jpg


    Anyway, i'm still thinking the Thanos's idea is the best one, so if you have a monitor with vesa mounting holes, go for it.

    A little advice: When i joined all the pieces toghether on the last post, i noticed the very narrow space between the pitch and roll. (See picture on the last post). So... there's no enough space for a bolt and nut in the X plane. I finally use this way to put the lcd base in a rect angle.

    angle.jpg

    More to come...
    Regards
    Oscar
  5. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Reaching Half way (nearly) :clap: :clap:

    This week was very productive : I have updated the joyrider and finally get the motors...

    Let's see what happened recently:
    The LCD is now as perfect mounted as i can imaging, with some simetrical balanced reinforcements. I advice again this is not the way it is supossed to be on a Vesa mount compatible monitors, is just for those like me with weird monitors. The normal way is Thanos perfect idea.
    This is what it looks like after nuts and bolts:
    lcd_reinforcement.jpg
    and from the sky:
    progress_02.jpg

    Next, the pedals... until i could find a better way, this is the position i decided to put them... they are confot enough to me, but i guess something adaptable could be better. Some reinforcements here too, with a lot of bolts on the PVC to keep it stays at level on any foot preasure.
    In detail:
    detail.jpg
    progress_01.jpg

    I will talk about the steering wheel other day... there's a little work to be done on that yet.

    Talking about the motors... i went to buy them to a junk store, and finally found them on an old Nissan Almera. They look to be ok, and it was 15€ each. Not a bad deal, i guess. But motors post will be in some days.
    The motors:
    junk.jpg
    motors.jpg

    Finally the DIY trackir i've done, with my brother's Wiimote and some ir leds...
    rtrack.jpg

    Just a question... how it is supossed to jump into the joyrider and sit down? Things are getting more and more narrow and difficult with all the stuff placed there. And i don't even try the saitek HOTAS... it seems i will need to add some stair to climb into...

    If you see on the second photo, on the upper right, i had to put some counterweight becouse the whole sim is falling to the right... just some of the wheels of the casters we used above, (300g total... not to much, in fact) anyway, bad calculation somewhere, i guess.

    And that's all for now...
    Regards
    Oscar
  6. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi Oscar,

    I noticed on this photo progress_02.jpg that you didn't left much free space for the Pitch motor mount. Are you sure you going to fit all in the small space left there??

    See this photo for example:

    [​IMG]

    And more in this link: http://ptyxiouxos.net/greekbotics/user_projects/Flight_Simulator/Pitch_motor_mount.htm

    And another thing... You will need a stand for your feet when they are not pressing the pedals. You will be tired having them hanging on the air!!!


    Btw, nice job!! Go on... Its very interesting and explains nicely all the steps needed to build such cockpit!!!

    Regards, Thanos
  7. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!...

    You are right... i was thinking on that since the first moment i joined the pieces together... As you see, i'm getting a little problems with the lenghts of the pipes, and i really don't know why, becouse the joyrider plans are perfect (a lot of joyriders everywhere with no complains about it) I must misunderstood something for sure. Anyway, neither of them are dead end problems...

    You can see i'm following all your previous work, but with some improvisation becouse in this level the important is to mount the differents equipments than differs from yours, and i think no Tronic's joyrider will be the same at this level. With all the info you gave us on your site, it's very, very, very simple to modify it to the different needs.

    Since i'm fininishing that crazy level, the next one (motors) will fit more exactly your steps. I was worried about the space all along the cockpit, not only regarding the pitch, but maybe if the pitch motor doesn't fit inside, what about placing it outside the 90mm pvc tube near the caster at the center? The upper part (where the pulleys go) would be a little longer to reach the cockpit, but with some reinforcements...

    I will face that problem on the next week, so the solution will not be very far from now...

    About the stand for the feet, that's why i removed the joyrider part of the center... i'm still thinking how to do it (in fact, i was thinking about right now downstairs).

    Thank you millons times for help me and the people who is following your footsteps on this topic, i know you must be very busy with your own stuff. It's a good thing to hear the advices of the creator!!!! :highfive:

    Regards
    Oscar
    P.D. Sorry if i repeat the same question... how it is suposed to enter into the joyrider cockpit? It's becoming impossible with the steering, the brakes, irons everywhere... :eek:
  8. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi Oscar,

    Since I was a little tall, I could climb in it easily without stairs or pushing the pipes down. In the Athens Digital Week show, on the other hand, there were a lot of people that wasn't so familiar on climbing in it, so I had to do a small trick. With the wheel on one hand and the motors kill power switch on the other, I accelerated a little the car, made a steer left and then pushed the kill switch to shut the motors off. Since the wipers motors keep the last position when non-powered, the whole cockpit was leaned to one side and it was very easy for even short people to get in. Then as soon they enter I turned on back the power to the motors and the whole cockpit returned to level again automatically!!!

    I know that is a lame way to do it. I've should programmed two spare buttons for this purpose, one to lean to side, and one to return to normal operation... Anyway I haven't been asked for this matter so far... ok maybe Erich did, since he has joyrider type cockpit too and using my AMC electronics... :blush: Not many decide to go over the joyrider design these days, since the prefer the less realistic but more slick design of a frex-like cockpit.


    Regards, Thanos
  9. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!...

    My brother came to my home today and we tried for the first time to connect it to the PC and play a little, simulating with our arms the hipothetical movement of the motors and then we realiced a mayor flaw in my design :uups: :
    Talking about the narrow space between the pitch and the roll parts -> Once my brother (same weight as me) sat down,the pvc tubes expanded under the preassure when the joyrider rolls (no matter left or right). I don't know if that is something normal but for the first time i have no idea how i could solve it, becouse... let me explain this with the same image of last post:
    stressed_01.jpg

    Let's see:
    The force of the casters locks the part A at a certain position, but when preassure is done, the frame spot at your feet expanded until it finds the 90mm frame. If i would do the 90mm frame larger, the part A will expand again until it finds the same part... with the risk of structural damage on heavy movements...
    So, is it normal on rolling those pieces touch themselves? The motors will have the strength to even not notice it, but i can hear a small sssshhhh there and you can see some white dust becouse the continous touching.

    I can not see how to solve it becouse the only force that join both frames are the casters... and my tubes are all the bent i want to allow.

    Probably you'll have to see it on your joyrider... imaging it is almost impossible without visual reference.

    Btw, tomorrow some photos of the foot holder (really nice)... today, just playing without movement yet was amazing... i can't wait to have the motors running.
    Ah, i almost forgot, my brother ask me 'is there an easy way to sit down on that thing without doing a faith jump and hearing all kinds of strange almost breaking-stuff sounds?' I was tempted to explain what Thanos told me on last post, but i just answered: as long as you keep the faith on science, you will not fall. (i hope, anyway)
    Regards
    Oscar
  10. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi Oscar,



    :lol: :lol: Of cource the Part A will bend to the sides with all this weight on it!!!! BUT when its front will be attached on the Pitch motor pulley belt, will be more rigid, as it will be supported by three connection points!! Thats why the Pitch motor assembly is necessary after all!!!!

    I'll try to add those switches on the next firmware release (among the other endless list....). Suppose that your computer is crashed and wont send motion data anymore... what then? :rofl:

    Regards, Thanos
  11. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!...

    :thbup: Thank you Thanos... i was thinking to rebuild the whole frame. :clap:

    There are two questions i can't answer yet, maybe are just crazy nosense, but... let's see:
    1. When the pulleys on either the bank or pitch assemblies move, the wire will follow the movement of the motor along the way. But, what makes the cable not slip on all the 3 pulleys of the assemble? As i saw on others pulleys driven sims, the wire is attached to one of the pulleys anyhow. (Of course, the wire is always connected to the joyrider axis frame you want to move), but in the yours the wire move freely with only one knob around the pvc frame.
    am i explaining right? Tech english is not easy for me....

    And 2.
    If you hold the wire around the pvc, the tension will be enough to keep the frame (part A) on their place? The pitch wire is just a... wire, you know, there's no much lateral force that prevents the frame move right and left on rolling (last post stuff)...

    I'm working with the motors... the big white pulley is driving me mad. I'm thinking to do something like Oscarh's homebrewed 2 DOF Car Simulator... but let me try on the last big hardware store of my city before...
    This is the Oscarh's homebrewed 2 DOF Car Simulator pulley:
    oscarhmotor.jpg
    Copyright by OscarH... not me :thbup:

    Thank you like always Thanos...
    P.D. are someone else building this kind of TronicGr sim who wants to talk a little about his toy?
  12. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi Oscar,

    I don't know if you noticed but I upgraded the simple steel cable with BUS engine belt:
    http://ptyxiouxos.net//greekbotics/user_projects/Flight_Simulator/upgrades.htm

    I did this upgrade cause the steel cable would lose its tension after a few hours of use no matter what I tried...


    1) The steel cable I used had a plastic coating that made it impossible to slip once you tension it! a single turn was enough to have it hold in place.

    [​IMG]


    2) Once the cable is tensioned it won't allow much lateral motion on the front of the Part A. In fact on my joyrider the front - back of the Part A are balanced in lateral forces too, from the two steel pipes I used (silver like parts). In such manner the weight of the seat (and me) is counterbalancing the LCD-support structure...

    This is the fan part with DIY, you can always reinforce your design later!! :lol:


    Regards, Thanos
  13. adochoa

    adochoa New Member

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    Will ATMEGA8535L-8PU work as well? Does it need it's own firmware?

    Thanks,
    Dave
  14. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    One big step for my sim, One huge leap for my self steem :hi:

    Finally i had to change my plans about the pulley like Thanos used (the white one), there's no such thing around the stores at my place.

    The pulley i used is like the little one Thanos used on the top part of both pitch and bank motors, but bigger, around 120mm and thick as the safety door of a bank.
    When i asked for a drill bit for drilling the pulley, the man at the store steared at me with a half smile on his face saying everything with his eyes: it's impossible, little man. Then i said to my self: let's see if someone has tried it before me on internet. The answer was on a motorcycle forum talking about drilling the brakes pads.

    No matter what that man of the store tells you: ask for a widia drill bit (6mm) and a titanium one (8mm or 8.5mm). The first one, adding water for time to time, will make a hole, then make it bigger with the 8mm titanium and more water. I can tell you that with only 1 widia and 1 titanium i've made 4 holes in a row.
    Total cost: 9€ pulley, 4€ widia, 4€ titanium... cheaper than i thought at the beggining.

    The other little problem was regarding the small part of the motor (the arm that moves the rest). I tried to find it, but guess what... i had to deal with the original piece, the one that ends with a ball attached (soldered) to it.
    After thinking some time, this is the result... not as elegant as thanos one, but functional. I just need to add one plate more, making it looking more and more like the Flux capacitor. :lol:

    Anyway, those are the pictures of this weird piece:
    flux_03.jpg
    flux_02.jpg
    flux_01.jpg

    And... hello there, Dave!!!
    I really don't know if your 8Mhz Atmega will work with the 16Mhz firmware... i can assume it will, but it's only an idea. Thanos will know for sure, sorry... but let us see the pictures of your joyrider here!!!

    Best regards...
    Oscar
  15. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!!!!!!

    Pretty work there, Dave... i will help you with whatever you ask along your path (be patient becouse it's a long and winding road :thbup: ) Anyway, i saw you did what egoexpress told you about opening a new topic. It's the first stop at your journey, so keep posting as much as you can!!! every accomplished step is a fantastic help for others like me.

    Let's do a mini review for the updates so far:

    The steering wheel, the pedals (with something to let your feet rest as Thanos reminded before) and the gear shift.
    I'm not really proud of the way i did it becouse i tried to do everything with metal instead of wood... it's something personal, but... I put a wood piece along the joyrider to attach the steering and the gear shift one next to the other. To attach the steering wheel i needed to put another 2 triangle pieces (cheap accesories of the predrilled stuff at the store) becouse the holes at the back of the steering wheel didn't match with the predrilled metal.
    The set (steering and gears), are really hard mounted, and it doesn't move a milimeter... what it's perfecto to play but some kind of hell to quit it to mount the airplane joystick instead... i'm thinking to solve it with two different sets, each one with the same kind of connectors to do a quick plug and play stuff. But it will be something ahead in time, first focus on finnish this.

    Those are the pics for what i've talked:
    steering_01.jpg
    steering_below.jpg

    The pedals... believe or not, it was all luck the confortability of this position. I did it without calculating very much, and i ended with something quite right.
    Yesterday i went to the Garbage and rubbish containers to throw all the PVC remaining at the basement (be green with your envirovement, dude) and while i was there i saw some usefull parts for my project.
    Between the rubbish i saw there was a thing the office people uses to rest their feet below the table... plastic, and a little dirty, but... mine for free :cheers: I drilled and it fitted perfect. Problem solved.
    Right now i'm putting some more angle to the pedals becouse after a while, it becomes a little tired to press them with just the fingers instead of the whole foot.

    This is the rubbish part included for free:
    pedals.jpg
    The clutch pedal is not there, i have unmounted it to do the angle work.

    Last, but not least, i saw another rubbish piece for my collection: Some company threw a mini atx form factor cpu case, and it was there, dirty, a little scratched, but best of all, in one piece. I removed the mobo, made some drills, and yep, i have a fantastic plenty of space box for my TronicGr + pololu hardware.
    junk_box.jpg

    On next posts i will show the steps for the roll bank construction.. in some days.

    P.D. I tested for the first time the AMC 1.5. I just found a good PSU and i was too happy... but just after connecting the 9v 2.2A PSU, the LDO began to get hot and hot, and testing the + with the VCC it said 9v instead of the 5v it must say. I spent one hour following and replacing some of the worsts soldering points... after that, the 9v is converted as it s suppossed to 5v and the green light poped up.
    Very Basic TIP of the Day (VBTD): If your AMC doesn't even turn on, look at the value of the DC current right after the 2940CT (that small thing with the heatsink mounted on it between the big capacitors). If it says 9v (or the v your PSU delivers... at least 6v) between pin 2 and 3, congrats, you have a marvelous shortcut somewehere at your circuit. Turn it off, and search for the magic point. :yes:

    Good night from this quiet town at night...
    Oscar
  16. DonCorleonez

    DonCorleonez Member

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    Where is the latest photo/video from your joyrider??I really would like to see it. :yippiee:
    Did you added some modification to its?

    Btw, thx mate for your post in my thraed, looking forward to further learning from you and whole crew of x-simulator. :cheers:
  17. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!...

    Some minor upgrades... too much work right now (crisis in spain means do the same with less than half the people)

    Anyway, meanwhile i check the AMC connection with the pololu, i've been cutting some metal.

    The holes of the motors i have don't match the holes of the predrilled metal (the odds were 1 to 10000n10, i know)... but why nissan didn't think about a joyrider when they designed theirs cars??? :lol:
    So, to match the holes, i had to imagine other way to reach the same step as TronicGr, again. Btw, I'm thinking to rename this topic to something else like some one told me at the very beggining, as this is not TronicGr joyrider exactly and i don't want to confuse the people coming here to follow his work.

    A little advice for upcomers: I've spent more time looking for the right tools than building the joyrider itself. So, before even planning, take yourself to the hardware store and buy some tools... or even better, become a close friend of your neighbour. Send your wife across the street to ask for salt if you need to do a first contact :mug1:

    This is the bank motor frame so far: (In high resolution... my iphone died last day and now i'm using a normal camera, not the crap the iphone had... fxck, i really miss that phone)
    motor_bank_01.jpg
    motor_bank_02.jpg

    The dimension of the frame is just about a little taller than me: 1,74cm + a little more= around 1'90cm
    As long as the frame of the joyrider don't crash with the upper side of the bank frame when moving it will be valid. As TronicGr says on his joyrider site, the wire (or the ribbon upgrade) must be in some degree of inclination, so to put the wire above the joyrider frame you have to put some predrilled metal on a 90º on the top... there is where the small and heavy pulleys are going to be. (I need a 12 drill to make a 12 hole on the metal... again, waiting to my wife to ask for sugar across the street :blush: )

    These are some pictures at better resolution of the whole structure i have so far... just in case someone is going blinded zooming thru the pixels.

    big_frame_01.jpg
    big_frame_02.jpg

    Best regards from a sunny day.
    Oscar
  18. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi,

    Really nice rig! I don't like very much the fact that the motors housing is pointing towards the joyrider frames... If for some reason the motion is out of control (faulty position feedback), you might end up with the large frame of the joyrider locked on the motors housing! :brows:

    Other than that, keep the great work!


    One more thing that might interest you is that I'm preparing to release a new firmware for AMC (Firmware v1.1 PWM and Firmware v1.1 Analog). These new firmwares will introduce 10-bit input resolution for each axis, and an option to drop the PWM frequency down to 10Khz that is more close to the Pololu motor controller specifications!!! I'd like your feedback on this 10Khz firmware as I don't own such Pololu controller.


    Best Regards, Thanos
  19. knob2001

    knob2001 Member

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    Hi!...

    Thank you as always... how can you be there every time someone needs help???? You are doing a lot of work here :clap:

    You are right, the motor housing is facing the wrong side... i realiced two bolts after finnishing. Let's see how it moves and then i will change it.

    About the pololu, i will be glad to test whatever is needed, and talking about testing, where is the link to download the x-sim2???
    The pololu version 2 ( not 3) is able to work up to 20Khz, at least is what they say... the version 3 works more in a 10Khz stream, and 15$ less the price too.

    However, instead of paypal contribution i was going to give you, how about helping you with something you need like a brand new pololu dual driver? Or something else... you deserve that for the amount of help and inspiration you throw on us! :cheers:

    Just a little questions regarding the AMC and the pololu driver... as long as you must keep the grounds isolated (the one of the AMC psu 9v and the pololu 12v battery car) to keep the noise apart from one circuit to the other:
    On the pololu, the Gnd central pins (Vin, Gnd, +5, Gnd, Vin) have a common
    earth to the Vin of the other side (the one you use to attach the 12v battery car).

    The other question is about the pinout of the pololu with the AMC:
    Again, look the central pins (Vin, Gnd, +5, Gnd, Vin). Those two Vin are a bridge from the Vin of the other side... i mean, Gnd - Vin of the motors have the same output for the Gnd - Vin of the other side. This ends with 12v running back to the AMC thru the 1-2 pins. I know for sure becouse i burnt the 8535 at the moment i connected the pololu to the AMC. I don't have here the AMC and i can't test it, but it should be just the +5V and gnd, leaving the two front Vin not connected? :?
    I'll try to draw something if i have time...

    Btw, is there anybody else working with the pololu to have a little talk? Let Thanos breathe a little, don't you think?

    Regards
    Oscar
  20. tronicgr

    tronicgr

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    Hi Oscar,

    You are right. the two Vin pins on the front side must left unconnected !!!!!! They are tied to the Vbat pin that takes 12V from the battery!!! I'm so sorry if the schematic was so wrong that lead to burn you atmega8535... This schematic was not made by me and since I don't own the kit I was checked only the that the correct data pins was connected!

    Another look on the schematic on pololu site explains better how these pins are tied to Vin (battery):
    pololu_motor_driver_schematic.jpg

    I only hope that the 12V from the battery didn't cause any trouble to the pololu driver itself since 12v was run into its 5v subsystems too!! :no: I guess I have to repair that schematic before someone else tries to connect it like that again!


    The other issue, the common ground, is not always a issue. Some motor drivers, and pololu is one of them, actually demand a common ground connection. The common ground was an issue to my mosfet DSMhb and to most mosfet based h-bridges cause ground is shifting to either halfs of an h-bridge...


    Best Regards, Thanos