Tommys simulator powered by wipermotors

Hi,

Yes its looks like Jeroen is having the same problem as I have. Im not sure it will help with another converter though, because I am using a converter based on FTDI. I reprogrammed the ATmega-chip today to see if that could help but it didn't. I started thinking maybe something is wrong with the converter anyway because it takes over an hour to program and verify the ATmega-chip. I guess that is not normal.

I did what erich wrote but still nothing happens.
I am using XP.

Regards, Tommy

Yes, that delay is normal if you are using a FTDI USB adapter! These things are not designed to be used with bit-banging mode that Ponyprog uses to program the chips over serial...!! At least it works!

But for hyperteminal, they are ideal since they transfer whole bytes. Now that I'm thinking of it again, did you enabled the Serial Printer option on your USB adapter properties on hardware section of control panel?


Regards, Thanos

Yes I did. I looked at my parents computer today and found a serial port, so I will go and buy a cable some day now and try it next time I visit my parents.

Regards, Tommy

Hi!
I tried to connect the card to Hyperterminal with a serial cable today without success.
I also tried the same with putty.
I don't know what to do anymore so could someone send me a HEX-file with the kp-value set to 25 or higher?

A tip on what to do would also be nice. :

Regards, Tommy

Hi Tommy,
i can try to save the Hex-file from my configuration. It is a long time ago, i used the Ponyprog programm .
Today, when i come back from work, i try it.

Hi,

I don't think that this will work. The data area that holds these KP values are wiped out every time you program a firmware into the atmega... These need to be hard-coded into the firmware as custom safety values since the first time the atmega boot these values are set to KP255!!! The firmware detects for false values on next reboot and set these automatically into safety range of 3-25.

@Michael, tell me what crystal speed you are using to prepare a range of custom KP value firmwares to try them.


Regards, Thanos

My Crystal Speed is 22.1184 MHz and i`m using a KP Value of 25.
If i understand your answer right, it would not work for Tommy if i copy my Hex file and sent it to him?.

Oh, sorry. The crystal related question was for Tommy...!

Michael, you cannot copy the KP settings by sending him a copy of the hex file from your Atmega8535 chip. The data are cannot be copied like this...

I'm into the research to make a VB6 program that will communicate with AMC and will give the opportunity to the user to set these setting and many more through GUI interface. Anyone that can help on VB6 programming is welcome!

Thanos

Hi and thanks for the help! :hi:

My Crystal Speed is also 22.1184 MHz.
I have now tried two more programs without any progress so I guess its something wrong with my card. Weird that its working at all. I cant find any short circuits so I guess its a component that is faulty.

Regards, Tommy

Hi Tommy,

I have compiled my new firmware 1.1 (not yet released until now) with large KP values from 25 to 30 just for you.
tommy modified large kp.zip

Use the speed that suits better you simulator.

If you have problems with the Max232 section of the AMC1.5 , you can bypass it and connect directly the RX - TX - GND lines on a USB to TTL Serial adapter module like the following that is very cheap and tested by me!!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/USB-A-to-Seri...14&_trkparms=72:1683|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318







Best regards, Thanos :

Thanks Thanos. :

I will try it next time I visit my parents which is probably next weekend.

Regards, Tommy

Hi Thanos,
On the subject of Kp, your max limit at the moment is 30 which I use with my 22.1184MHz crystal. For those with heavier sims, could you please consider even higher Kp values. I think one should be able to reach a level of just instability and then cut back the number to a stable operating # to ensure that one is using the most responsive Kp value.

Regards, Erich.

I tested with higher kp-value today and it seems to work much better. :thbup:
I also compared the two motors and noticed that one of them took more amperes before moving, so I visited the junkyard and bought a new one. I also completely isolated the motors from the frame.

Evereything seems to work fine now when i only connect one of the motors, but the problem is that if I connect both motors at the same time, the same mosfet as I marked earlier gets hot in a second and the amperemeter shows ~3A also when the motor is not moving.
I guess it's a component that is broken but which can it be? Or can it be something else that is wrong?

I hope thanos who have consturcted the board knows better. :

Regards, Tommy

Hi Tommy,

You have to remove some parts from it and measure the resistors and the diodes on the Bad side h-bridge with a multimeter. Compare the diode values with the values you get on diodes on the good side of the h-bridge.

Measure resistors with Ohm, and Diodes with proper diode tester that should exist on your multimeter (diode tester makes beeping sounds in most multimeters). For example when I measure the Zener diodes on my h-bridge I get .653, and Schottky diodes reads .168.



The parts that you should remove are marked in blues circle in the next photo. Also disconnect all mosfets on that side, as well the motor and power connections!



If your measurements shows no differences then you may need to change that BC546 circled in blue or even the 74HC08 chip in case it provides bad signals!

Regards, Thanos

Hi,

My problem with the hyperterminal was that I ussed the wrong capicitators with the crystal. Mine is now running on 18mhz...
The 22mhz did not work for me.

Maybe you soldered the wrong ones too...

gr. Jeroen

Hi all!!!
I have found the reason to my problems now and corrected it. :yippiee:
The problem was a simple cold joint but it was really hard to see. Here are a couple of pictures of it and where it was.

[img600px]http://home.mnwa.net/~tommy/Simulator/kallodn.JPG[/img600px]

[img600px]http://home.mnwa.net/~tommy/Simulator/kretsk%20001.jpg[/img600px]

Next thing to do is to make a better solution to the gears for the potentiometers as my solution doesn't work good enough. The belt is slipping too much. Here is a picture of how not to do. ;D

[img600px]http://home.mnwa.net/~tommy/Simulator/legosolution.jpg[/img600px]

Thanks for the tip Jeroen I will check it later.
Regards, Tommy

Yes it is Lego Technic and it is actually working quite well. It is easy to do adjustments when you got all kinds of parts. I can't get rid of the slipping though.

Btw, sorry for the late reply. I was hoping to be able to show you a video of the simulator next time I post, but I have been too busy to make one.

Hi Tommy :hi: ,
is there something new to report (Video) ?

Hi Michael N :hi:

I have been busy doing other things outside now when its summertime and nice weather, but I promise I will return to this project when rainy days comes.

The things that is left on my to do list is:

Get rid of the slipping between the legoparts.
Get a box for the electronics.
Maybe paint the simulator.
Get a better battery. (this far I have used a 5Ah battery)
Buy uniballs for the linkage between motors and seat and attach the seat better to the linkage.
(The linkage between the motors and seat has started gapping too much now).
Make a video.

Btw. What is the right name for uniballs? All I find on ebay when I search for uniball, is pens. :?