Tronic's AMC motor motion-controller with pwm/servo output

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dRQJLMfMS6U

this is my problem youi can see the pots are set to 500 and still there LED lightning? maybe mosfets?

Maybe, just test them with a digital multimeter. Look at my last answer, there was a link how to test a mosfet with a multimeter and answer my other asks please

hi today i gave a new mosfets.. and problem is still.. when i connect direct +5V on PWM1 and on M1N1 also +5V on M1N2 GND and connect +5v to 74hc08 itis good so i think there will úrpblem in avr motion conttroller 1,5.today itis better ive got onl 0.7 max V on center leg of modfet.. but green diode is blinking.. it begin blinking when i press start in computer

idontz know why another crystal dont work with 18 no text on lcd and with 24 it seems ok but when i press start there is no reaction of data on first two values.isnt able that this doing crystal?

This seems to me like motor noise. It must be electrical noise that the potentiometers pick-up from the motors. Use shielded cable to connect your potentiometers with the AMC board!!!

Some questions:
- I noticed some LINEAR potentiometer on your bench (from your video). I suppose you will be using them? Are you sure that they are not logarithmic?
- If you place the potentiometer near the motor or if you hold with one hand the pot and in other the motor, do you see this effect gets worst?
-What power source you are using? Car battery? Wall transformer?


Some facts:
-If the input value of ax axis is 127, then the center value for the potentiometers is 512 !!! (not 500)
-The center value of the potentiometer will vary as they seek new input data.

-The park area of the motors in center position is very small, around 5 values, that is easily overshoot by the resolution of many potentiometers, causing this blinking some times... see this in action on the following video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S7UlG830_sc


Best Regards, Thanos

Each crystal require a different firmware to be loaded on the Atmega8535 chip!!!!!! Since you have loaded firmware for 22Mhz crystal it will not work with other value crystals or work partially!

Regards, Thanos

hello today i tried to touch my test drill and touch potentimmeters it begins also alittle bit leaking out voltage so iti wil be by potentiometers?i want ask that contacts + and - on púotentiometers are also needed to be right or it canbe changed ?? i founded w contact and now ui think if there cant be problem with this +and - on pots?but this is problem tahnks very much.. i have tofind some cables with shield and where to connect shield?

You could use (audio)stereo cables for example, and use the shield itself as GND connection as well.

Hi Mila,

I just noticed on you LCD that you are using an older BETA version of the AMC firmware, that may cause you the problems you describe me.

If its possible, load the latest stable Firmware v1.0 that is on the first page of this thread:
tronic-s-amc-motor-motion-controller-with-pwm-servo-output-t559.html

direct link of the file: download/file.php?id=613

Remember to load the correct firmware file for the crystal you are using!


Regards, Thanos

Hello i think that is completeed.. maybe problem was really in the firmware.. i gave this firm PWMBETA002LCD_OP22.HEX and it works fine now.. thanks to TRONIC. here is avideo how it works i press the pedals and motor ismoving from one side to second.. and diods are right blinking... itis connected on battery from car.. i think it will be enough capacity(70Ah) but i think iwill have to regenerate it during the playing or over night? how are doing this with battery? so now i will begin completes the joyrider.. i bought some plans from internet over paypal, are there some things which i have to know before beginign building joyrider? i think build problems and things which are alerted during building? Thanks to all Mila

PS. iam using 22.1184 CRYSTAL have i to use another or itiias enough? bye

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8G0B2gusa6c&feature=channel_page :clap:

PWM_AMC15_2DOF_V1_CRYSTAL22.HEX
Hi to all i installed today this firmware up.. and it works fine....

Nice to hear that it works :clap: .
I´m using 22.1184 Crystal too.

Hello to all i want ask you now whebn i finished electronic part of project.. which construction is best to build i saw a motion seat of egoexpress and it looks fine but whats another of tronicgr simulator i think another in effects or what is better? i want to talk with somebody who can say me what better to build maybe tronicgr can help me with this questions?what is more realistic??Mila from Czech

Hi Mila,

Choosing the right cockpit model is yours decision! It depends on your needs and on what type of simulation games you want to use it with:

The SimforceGT type is for CAR simulator games only as its limited motion simulates the tension on the hands of driver while steering mostly and the only thing that is moved is the seat. This is a cheaper and simpler solution that you can start with and experiment using still car wiper motors with crank arms (like Christian did: christian-s-2dof-simulator-t892.html )

The joyrider type is more general type of motion cockpit and can be used to simulate almost any type of vehicle, Cars, airplanes, bikes, boats,,, Its based on using the earths acceleration by leaning the entire cockpit to certain degrees thus simulating acceleration mostly and rotation in airplane games. This is more complicate to build but worth the effort in the end. It can be build with PVC, Aluminum pipes, or metal pipes as well depending the access you have to heavy power tools!

Or build a mini-joyrider cockpit called Tornado Blue's (from the name of the creator) as on the next photo:

(The photos are property of Joel F1OFR – France, kindly sent to me recently) :clap:




As you can see there are many options to choose from, or even enroll you your own unique motion cockpit design! :thbup:


Best Regards, Thanos

Hi Thanos i said it before and will say it again big big thank you for the work you have done on your controller and am now happy to report :yippiee: big grin my AMC controller is now working as it should i had stopped work on that part of the project a few weeks ago and was frustrated that i got everything built and had display problems : . I knew it was not your circuit so it was obviously something i did wrong but finding this little mistake made me pull out what hair i had left ... anyways after many resoldered joints and loads of checking still could not find the problem ( Wow Bummer ) went back and had a another look over the weekend and At Last Found the Bugger ....all my problems came down to a Very very very small Bridge between the RS lcd Terminal and the 0 volt line and intermitant crimpped connection on my so called idiot proof veroboard LCD interface.. ( Shoulda got a proper LCD board Like your made But Forgot at time of etching ) the upside is that now my baby works (so big up Thanks for all the feedback and tips Guys ) it goes to show that its always the simple things that can trip us up ( Well Me anyways ) so its with great relief that i can now try my H Bridge Connected up To The Controller ( scary Times ahead) : will keep you all posted sorry to jum in on your thread but really just wanted to say great work. By The way those are not resistors in on the LCD Interfcae But Zero Ohm Links and at the moment the LCD is not Backlit That will happen when i get it made properly D'oh .

Hi

Small bridges is not the only problem that may occur...

While doing my PCB boards, right after soldering all the parts, I noticed that the remains of the solder paste (Flux) (that I used to create perfect soldering joints), started to corrode the PCB surface in some places. So I had to wash the solder side of the PCB with Flux-off liquid and rub it with the help of an old toothbrush. Of course this alone doesn't eliminate the possibility of corrosion due to the contact with air so I also sprayed it with a thin plastic layer (plastik spray). Generally Its better to start the soldering procedure and finish it in less than 2-3 days to clean it and shield it with plastik as soon is possible. If for some reason you can't finish the soldering procedure in a day or two, you can place the PCB in gelatin film to keep it way from airs oxygen.

So my recommendation is to invest a little more to purchase and use these two on your boards... And you can save them for other projects later as well as they can be stored for years!!!



Regards, Thanos

Hi Thanos as alway appreciate all input form you, i did have some flux remover but did not use it on this pcb so thanks for the tip. am Just this minute trying to follow video tutorial Part 4 ref Testing profiller input to AMC controller Fingers crossed :clap:

Hi Thanos had a good day today playing with the setup and X-sim 1.6.9 interfacing, managed to get my network connection running and was able at long last run Profiler on One PC and The Game with Force sender and Outsim on the other :yippiee: Yessssssss! now need some advice regarding the pots and motor speed.. at present i have two direct drive scooter motors for initial testing and am happy to say the Hbridge PCB is running sweet ( led's Fine and rapid Direction changes great )and the only issue i seem to have with the AMC card, is an issue with intermitant COM port connection when i activate the start button on the Profiler.. when its working ( ie succesful connection ) i can see the 1st & 2nd 3 digit Groups of values on the Top Line of the LCD moving according to where i Position the X & Y axis Cursors from the profiller :clap: i can also manually change the 3rd and 4th group of number to reflect the Positon of my 10K 270Degrees Pot's.. so far so good and finally when i load your z axis Profile and start froce sender i can see the vallues cahnging on the profiller screen :yippiee: 8) . my question is is this a problem others have experianced ie the with the AMC connecting to profiller ? Should i do things in a specific order to ensure 1st time connnection? Great to at last have something to play with and see things happening as you designed the system to do ( learning more about X-sim all the time Now ) the biggest question is , EWhne i connect my Electric Wheel chair motors ( with DC Brake) do i still have the Grounding Issues that you guys have when using wiper motors? the boys getting excited now can see thing moving LOL and most of all No Smoke yet.. :

hi
First everyone a great 2009.
I want to make my own ballscrew actuators fore a dof 3,but i am not shure pwm can do the job.
Can someone tell me.
Regards Ad

Hi Adgun,

I'm sure that it will work fine! The ballscrew isn't going to suffer from freewheel effects, like direct crack arms do. So even non powered the will not move if the screw inside it isn't rotated by the motor.

Egoexpress might tell more about it since he used the firgelli actuators with AMC1.5 some time ago. His actuators are using acme nut but I think its close enough.

It will be interesting to see such ballscrew actuator accelerating by the proportional servo code of the AMC1.5. I'd like to see how fast it can reverse the direction!



Regards, Thanos