Tronic's AMC motor motion-controller with pwm/servo output

ok I was not really shure what he ment...Thankyou! Will try this now!

Are you having problems with the programming? Or getting the Axis information?

If you are not getting the Axis data then the problem is not the crystal capacitors, it is the crystal and serial port frequency. USART only works reliably with 1.8432MHz crystals, and perfect multiples of this. The greater the drift the more unreliable the communication gets. Use the 18.432MHz, 20.2752MHz or 22.1184MHz crystals with 17-22pF capacitors.

Oh and don't connect XTAL pins to Ground. You will fry the oscillator in the microcontroller.

Tried without caps,,,same problem. Do you think my atmega could be broken? I am trying to check all the soldering also. I feel like i am close to make this work, and that would really be a great christmas-present to myself!!!

If you can't program it then try to look in your programmer circuit and the serial port setting of your computer.

What do you mean with programmer circuit?

On your AMC board, beside the upper DB9 connector where you connect MOSI MISO SCK RES. That's the part that will convert RS232 voltage levels from the PC to 0-5V levels that won't hurt the uC. Make sure your serial port work and select the right COM port in ponyprog. Are you using a USB-RS232 adapter?

OK I will have a close look at this area. I am using a serial modem cable on a old pentium-pc with win98pro with two serial com ports. I am usin com1. the programming led is flashing when i try to read and write from ponyprog, and probe says OK. thanks for helping me folks!

There you have it. You said serial MODEM cable? Thanos designed his circuit to work with a serial EXTENDER cable.

The difference is, modem cables are meant to connect 2 devices and the TX and RX lines are switched up (TX goes into RX both ways) PIN 2->PIN 3 and PIN 3->PIN 2. Extender cable just extends the line, so PIN 2->PIN 2 and PIN3->PIN3.

If you can, try to change PIN 2 and PIN 3 on your board (cut and resolder the traces) and try again.

My cable is not a Null modem cable, and I think it is an extender cable. Is this what you refered to? The packing says: db9 to db9 M/F

Yes that's what I was referring to. I would double check to make sure. If you have a multimeter you can measure the resistance between the ends and make sure pin2/3 are not exchanged.

I will do that. Its -15 celsius cold outside, and this is a great indoor hobby, so I will continue trying this weekend. Hope some of you good helpers are online then EDIT: My cable is ok says the multimeter, no crossed wires! Something else must be wrong hm... :?

Is there anyone know why profiler sends AB?
profiler-sends-ab-t2160.html

Hi does anyone know why when I access Hyperterminal i enter a kp value and press enter but i get no response .When i press reset i get the same refreshed screen . My wiper motor is functioning with a 10k pot successfully Any clues ?
CHEERS Nick

hi fredspeed,

your christmast wil be save.
look at the 5 jumperwires.
the first 5 connectors should be bridged, you bridge the first 4 an the 6th.
jumper the first 5 an you are good to go.



TOM

Tom is right. If you connect Ground to the Vcc pin at the AVR, it is not going to work (and that is the best scenario). Connect the 5th (bottom wire) to the 6th by the AVR. It goes: (Mosi, Miso, Sck, Res, Vcc, Gnd)

OK thanks! I will test this tomorrow. In Thanos Amc video guide, it looks like the first 4 and 6th jumperwires are connectet, so that is why I did so. In Ponyprog-guide only the 4 first jumpwires are shown connected, but I did not see at first that it was not v1.5! I will solder the caps again, and try this tomorrow. do you think I destroyed something using the 6th ? (and that is the best scenario).

Fred

is there anywhere a guide who descripes the configuration of x-sim to operate with the tronix AVR board ?
the video guid is not avail. for me because i am not a rapidshare member.

TOM

Fred, connecting Vcc to Gnd is never a good idea In the original design Thanos doesn't have a connection for Vcc (there is no solder point for the 5th pin socket), but I don't know if you solderet it or not. Do you have that hole drilled on the PCB? Do you have that wire soldered on the other side? If you electrically connected Gnd and Vcc on your board, the voltage regulator on the top with a heatsink would probably be blown. If your power led lights up then I guess your all good. Check your Voltage on the Vcc pin respect to Gnd.

The 5th was not a soldered connection. trying now

Damm, your are right. *g*
anyway, should work. (fingercrossing ...)