Tronic's AMC motor motion-controller with pwm/servo output

I never get any response about servos?
Thanks

You are asking with the answer already in your question. It is a servo signal output. Google it and you will find a lot of information. It is basically a short pulse between 1ms and 2ms in about every 20ms. The length of the pulse determines the servo position from 0-90 degrees.

Hello everyone

I just started building my simulator, for now I just realized the control board for Thanos. But I have a problem, ponyprog gives me an error device missing or unknow device (-24) I tried to set the software as described in the guidance Thanos and I also added the fix of Erich I tried with all the crystal from 14.7456 to 18,432 and then try and 22.1184 at the end 24, all tested with capacitors 22pF 100V 5% and then with those from 18PF 100V Ceramic 5% each. After many tests I was able to set the fuses but I can not load any firmware. I need help do not know what to do basically the realization of my simulator and in your hands.

Another tip is if I use this lcd will place the datasheet
if you could connect it to do some changes to the links?

http://www.adrirobot.it/datasheet/LCD/P ... 602H_1.pdf

http://www.lcdforums.com/forums/viewtop ... fcafb2dca9

Thank you so much for the answers that you will know me as I follow you always and I could not leave out anyone in trouble, unfortunately I do not know much of electronics

Excuse my English and was translated by google

Thanks to all :

pippo, if you can program the fuses, you have to be able to program the flash too. Can you still program the fuses? Do you get the missing device error?

I'll explain only twice I managed to set the fuses and in both cases I could not load firmware when I try ponyprog gives me this error I do not understand What 's wrong I also tried to change power before I used 8V 1A then 6V 300mA but it seems not to change anything.
I just put the pictures of my control board

Hmm, i think that`s wrong and fredspeed was right. My wiring Bridge looks like PIN 1-4 bridged, Pin 6 bridged, PIN 5 not bridged and it works fine . Look at the Video Guide from tronic.

Wohw the card I mounted work but it's very strange !!!!

In fact, I had to configure the serial port at 38400 bauds insteed of 115200 !!! But I have wrote the firmware named PWM_AMC15_2DOF_V1_CRYSTAL24.HEX.

When I configure my serial port at 38400 bauds, I can change KP values and send values through X-sim ! The led of the H bridge change (red and green). It works but it's not the configuration it should have.

Does someone have any idea ?

Thanks

Hi frouenque,

It is very strange about your card working at the baud rate you mentioned! If I had to take a guess, i'd say it's got something to do with your crystal, as we use specific crystals that can divide 100% into the 115200 baud rate... But that's just a guess..
But, if it works, who gives a damn

LOL

Anyway, I have a problem now, regarding the hall sensors. As per the advice that Knob2001 gave me, I went out and sourced the required hall sensors, but when connecting them, I seem to get the full range (0 - 1023) with only about 45 degrees of movement from the hard drive magnet. This is not good, cause my sim can travel 45 degrees in every direction, so I need to be able to get the full range with AT LEAST 90 degrees of movement on the z-axis in order to use it.. I have tried calibrating it with the 10K trimmer pot, but that only increases or decreases the range, but does nothing to increase the travel of the physical magnet. I have tried replacing the trimmer pot with a 1K, 15K and 20K to see what difference it makes, but I am still not able to change it so that it gives me the full range with more travel... Ultimately I would like to connect the hall sensor and magnet to my pulley that's connected to the motor, as that pulley travels only one revolution up and one revolution down, which then gives me about 45 degrees of physical travel on the sim. Can anyone help me with some suggestions here please?

Once this is sorted, our sims are complete, so the sooner I can get this portion out the way, the better

Thanks guys, looking VERY MUCH forward to your replies!

Hi everybody HAPPY NEW YEAR
Update :In the process of playing with the wiper motors I managed to blow up some fets.on the H Bridge (they go off like bullets) Yesterday I recieved my blue LCD display and manged to connect force profiler :clap: , when I move the pots the second set of numbers move up and down,when I adjust the sliders in profiler the first set of numbers move up and down(I think this is all correct so far) Now while I wait for my new Mosfetts I want to try MS Flight sim and work out how it connects with profiler
CHEERS Nick

Congratulation with your progress Nick. I am now waiting for new atmega, and will try to replace to see if I can manage to program it. If that doesent work I have also ordered a complete set of components, and will solder a new amc from scratch. :thbup:

Fred

Hi to all, Happy New Year

I see often that there are problems either sourcing the correct atmega8535 - atmega644 chip, and more often setting the fuses and programming it...

So I was thinking of trying help by offering you pre-programmed kits ready to use.

The kits will have only some parts and no pcb, but will be great help since its easier to make the PCB's anywhere in the world than sourcing certain parts...

Suggested parts:
-Atmega644-20PI (pre-programmed)
-22,1184 mHz crystal and matching capacitors
-proper LM2940-5
-sparkfun FT232 USB2serial mini board
-some transistors and capacitors that are hard to find (and that strange 10uH coil...)

-optional: 2x16 backlight LCD screen

As you can see I discourage the use of Max232 anymore since modern motherboards dont have serial ports anymore. So a good USB to serial adapter needed. This small sparkfun board is great for this job and works perfect for either using to connect to profiler of either to change motor settings with hyperterminal...


What do you think? Will be any interest on this?


Best Regards, Thanos

Hello Thanos. and happy new year to you too! It would be great if you can do this. I am hoping to make it work when I get new parts, but since the rest of the project depend on making the amc working, it would be great to have this oportunity! Specially for us that lives in places with no stores like you have. My experience is that with a combination of digikey.com and futurelec.com I was able to find it all, but since some of the components have a lot of versions, especially at digikey, I am not shure its 100% correct. digikey is wery fast, as I ordered monday night (from USA) and its waiting for me at local post today! (Norway) But they are expensive in delivery cost (minimum 35 us-dollar) Futurlec is more cheap when it comes to delivery, but I must wait 3 weeks on the order.

Fred

Great idea Tonicgr !! It can help some people who can not buy components or who have problem with the programation of the atmega!

Do you have see the problem I have ? I have to configure my serial port at 38400 bauds insteed of 115200 it's strange no ??

Thanks

hi!

i think that is a very good idea, if you do this i want to buy this kit.
do you already know how much it will cost?

thanks!
Rappa

Now I am sitting here witn new atmega`s, They are named ATMEGA8535-16PU-ND (0941), and ATMEGA644-20PU-ND. i will now try to replace the one i have (8535 16PU 0914) to see if i can program it without getting the 24-error Which one would you recomend to try first? (I know there is different firmware) And then a dummies question: Is there a direction on the chrystals ( I guess not, but just to be shure) Anybody knows the the difference of 0941 and 0914 ? (printet on the ic)
Edit: Never mind,,,read my next post
Fred

Hi Thanos Χρονια Πολλα
Just to say thanks to you and others for posting all this , it must take up a lot of your time , much appreciated . If your ever in Sydney the coffee and beer is my shout : Nick

Hello folks. I am so happy right now, so I must share it with you. I replaced the ATMEGA with a new one, an was then able to program it. I first choose the 14 mhz chrystal, but I guess I can reprogramme it and try with another crystal? Anyway, it seems like the first atmega I purchased was bad! Now I am ready to move on to the next step. Thanks to You Thanos and you other good helpers, I guess there is more challenges ahead, but this was a big step for me!!! :yippiee:

As we say in OZ goodonya :yippiee:
CHEERS Nick

Hello freespeed

I would ask you which firmware you have loaded and what steps you have done to change the KP with HyperTerminal because I managed to load the firmware from 22 MHz but can not enter in hyperterminal settings KP I followed the tutorial but nothing happens Tronic
How can I test if my card, and the MAX232 work? How do I know that my serial port is communicating with my card?
My 232 is a chip ADM202 JNZ # 0914
Please help me my project and still I do not know first if everything works.

Thanks to all :

Hello Pippo, seems like we are at the same stage. I have loaded the 14 mhz firmware with sucess last night, but have not managed to make it connect to x-sim yet. I take one step at a time, and will try later this weekend to read some posts about it and try to make it work (to busy with other commitments...) I will post my progress with it here, and I guess there is a lot of folks on this forum that can help us with the next step!

Edit: Now i have sucsessfully followed thru Thanos amc guide and hyperterminal guide and tested my amc with x-sim. I use a usb-serial adapter from ST-lab, and i am able to make the lcd show the numbers in x and y axis when I am moving the sliders. I have also tested a potentiometer on the amc and i can see the changes on the lcd, but after a short while the potentiometer gets hot, (and smokey) I believe I have missed something about pots. It is a 250k but i also have 100k, and I will try that too, but why does it get hot?

Fred