Using Chinese actuators?

Page 5 and 6 of my thread has some pics of my Levers and motor's, And for pot mounting go with something Directly on the shaft but incorporate "Flex couplers" to protect the Pot" motor's from Pgsaw should have a 1/2" or 12.7mm shaft, so you'll need the Appropriate Couplers. 1/2" to 6.35mm Links can all be provided when the time comes. My flex couplers can be seen on page 18

Not sure how simple you want.
You need a "sensor" in this case a Potentiometer mounted to "read" off the motor shaft or the controller will not know where to motor position is. It took me a bit of time in the beginning to understand this as well.
@Nick Moxley , I think has more detailed photos of his set up.
But heres mine
I drilled a hole into the back of the motor shaft the size of the pot shaft. In hindsight now I do not drill right through both, but enough to tap a small grub screw into the top part to tighten against the pot shaft so it holds steady.

I could get away with using an average coupling for the pot shaft, right? But how would I add a threaded end to the other side of the gearbox where the lever eventually gets added on?

Like in this picture that @Nick Moxley posted, what is the giant nut going on? And how is that attached the gearbox? I see a black coupling with a grub screw, is that really all it needs? So I could just use a normal coupling, put a grub screw through it and couple it with a threaded shaft?
http://s150.photobucket.com/user/da...review_image_0_26492742x_zpse667a059.jpg.html

The large Nuts "pinch" the Gear box but Aren't technically enough to prevent it from Turning when loaded or something goes wrong, The Grub screws are there to help with that, I have since gone on to Also Use a codder pin on the Tightening nut as you can see in my Flex coupler picture.

The 2 Nuts have been Super squeezed together then Welded on the lever end....So i just slide the lever and main shaft as 1 through the motor, Add the tightening nut, Tighten, add codder pin to tightening nut, Add flex coupler, add pot. Done.

this should help seeing what they look like,

I used these to increase the angle available on mine:

OH MY GOD. I was so frustrated all day because I couldn't understand. All the threads just skip over this step like it was nothing and I couldn't figure out any way to do it. Thank you all so much. I'm a little too embarrassed to tell you guys what was confusing me. But let me tell you this, the dumbest person of the day award does go to me.

@noorbeast That idea seems like the stronger solution, but I'm going to have to go with what @Nick Moxley posted.

Now. I have a very good idea in my head of the structure for the sim. I'm going going to have to wait for my computer to get unpacked (just moved from overseas recently) so I can draw it on Sketchup.

I understand how the tie rods and motors will be mounted. I'll be using JRK. I'll be using a universal joint from a car to mount the bases. I think I want to use a 360 degree potentiometer just in case. I don't know if I can learn the software bits just by reading. But is it hard if I were to wing it? How much am I looking at for PSUs? Nuts and bolts excluded, what else do I need to start looking into?

@noorbeast I'm not sure how to choose gearboxes. So I figured I would go with the pgsaw option posted earlier. Are there better options for not a lot more?

I'll definitely look into those. Thanks!

Just to add. It depends on how heavy you are and what you intend to build. A "standard" seat mover like Nicks, will move 120kg ish with 25:1 boxes on the motors. Although if you wish a little more sturdy setup, meaning the boxes hold when there is no power, then use 50:1. Of course you would have a slower reactions, but a suitable lever and good profile settings will overcome that.

@bsft I weigh 70kgs. I'm not sure how much my cockpit will weigh. I'm planning to build a tubular frame out of stainless steel tubing. It will basically be the front end of an F1/open wheeler style vehicle. The tubular frame will then be used to build fiberglass components to add the body panels to. I don't think the weight should exceed 120-140kg. I would like to move the whole cockpit. The projector screen will be mounted on the wall in front.

@noorbeast 120kg-140kg should be weight of the cockpit with me in it.

I have a very rough drawing on paper right now. It won't make much sense to anyone but me, haha. As soon as my computer gets unpacked, I'll draw it up on sketchup. I was thinking of a foot mount design too.

50:1 box motors foot motor mount for sure

Can you recommend any? I've tried looking for many on eBay. I could do so myself if you could please tell me what sort of specs are considered decent.

Gotcha'.

Is this motor any good? Regardless, how do people mount levers on something like this?

http://m.ebay.com/itm/12V-160RPM-Mi...ual-Shaft-High-Speed-/321810155725?nav=SEARCH

The Cheapest Known working motor's have been linked already, Anything new will be a guess and might be more hassle's then you are prepared to deal with.

The 5th post on this page covers mounting on Solid shafts.

I'm 99% percent sure I'm getting the those Pgsaw motors. But I was just wondering how people mount levers on various types of shaft. Just out of curiosity. How do people make the keyway kind of levers? I know the Pgsaw motors have a tube through the gearbox, so it doesn't concern me really.